1573573001,timestamp,2-3 vermont-cows-tee,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""gift---garden-products"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/t-shirt-vermont-cows-18.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-4.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/t-shirt-vermont-cows-19.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-10.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-11.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/t-shirt-vermont-cows-18.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-4.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/t-shirt-vermont-cows-19.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-10.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vermont-cows-t-shirt-11.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""waxed-canvas-grow-pouch"",""watering-can-planter"",""birch-bee-habitat""]}]}" go-wild-special-edition-seed-mix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-wildflower-mixes-specialized"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\nIn planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with themselves for space!\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!\n\nNote: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now, some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.\n\nWhere to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n\n Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year, and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow.\n\nMaintenance: The amount of work you want to put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum success.\n\n Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area?

\nContact Us for Suggestions!\n\n

What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.?

\nAll wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbird/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!\n\n

Can I grow wildflowers in full shade?

\nThe technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.\n\n

Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive?

\nNO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.\n\n

Can I use more than one mix in the same area?

\nYes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or add additional species - the creativity is endless!\n\n

When Should I Plant?

\nIn Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!\n\n

How do I store my seeds?

\nStore seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!\n\n

What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding?

\nSome only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing season!\n\n

Can I order now and have you ship later?

\nYes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when -  we’re at your service!\n\n

Should I add anything to my soil?

\nTechnically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other additives. (Contact us for details)\n\n

How often should I water?

\nOnce germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.\n\n

Can I transplant my wildflowers?

\nMost wildflowers do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want to see them grow!
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What's In The Kit?
\n\n- 1lb. Special Edition Wildflower Mix (Baby's Breath, Black-eyed Susan, Blue Flax, Calendula, Blue Cornflower, Candytuft, Forget-me-not, Gloriosa Daisy, Wild Cosmos, Purple Coneflower, Lance-leaf Coreopsis, Iceland Poppy, New England Aster, Perennial Lupine, Oriental Poppy, Plains Coreosis, Love-in-a-mist, Multi Cornflower, Yellow Coneflower, Red Poppy, Rose Mallow, Scarlet Flax, Shasta Daisy, Siberian Wallflower, Sulphur Cosmos, Sweet William, and Wild Sunflower).\n\n- 10 Individual Wildflower Species Packet (Johnny Jump-Up, Russell Lupine, Mexican Hat, Blanket Flower, Lacy Phacelia, Rocket Larkspur, Morning Glory, Sweet Alyssum, Autumn Beauty Sunflower and Zinnia).\n\n- 1 Soil Test Kit\n\n- 1 Pair of Garden Gloves\n\n- 1 All Natural Vermont Wildflower Farm Soap\n\n- 1 All Natural Bug Repellant Balm\n\nThis mix was specially created and includes not only traditional wildflowers but rare and expensive species. It is a higher percentage of perennial species for years of wonderful blooms but has a good percentage of colorful annuals for a first year bloom while your perennials mature!\n\nSHIPPING and HANDLING CHARGES:\n(For U.S. Only)\n\n

Standard Processing & Shipping (Processed within 72 Hours)

\nOrders of $39 or More! = FREE\n Just $6.95 for orders of $38.99 or Less!\n\n

Priority Processing & Shipping (Processed within 48 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $10.95\n\n

Expedited Processing & Shipping (Processed within 24 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $17.95\n\n

Express, Next Day Etc.

\nPlease Phone or E-mail Customer Service\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\nIn planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with themselves for space!\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!\n\nNote: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now, some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.\n\nWhere to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n\n Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year, and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow.\n\nMaintenance: The amount of work you want to put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum success.\n\n Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area?

\nContact Us for Suggestions!\n\n

What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.?

\nAll wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbird/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!\n\n

Can I grow wildflowers in full shade?

\nThe technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.\n\n

Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive?

\nNO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.\n\n

Can I use more than one mix in the same area?

\nYes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or add additional species - the creativity is endless!\n\n

When Should I Plant?

\nIn Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!\n\n

How do I store my seeds?

\nStore seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!\n\n

What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding?

\nSome only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing season!\n\n

Can I order now and have you ship later?

\nYes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when -  we’re at your service!\n\n

Should I add anything to my soil?

\nTechnically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other additives. (Contact us for details)\n\n

How often should I water?

\nOnce germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.\n\n

Can I transplant my wildflowers?

\nMost wildflowers do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want to see them grow!
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perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n18-22 Inches\n\nSpread:\n32-36 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPink/Light Pink shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nBee Friendly\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nRapid\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSpring - Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nPoor Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nDried Flower\nDrought Tolerant\nEasy To Grow\nFragrant Flowers\nMass Planting\nSalt Tolerant\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nYarrow is one of the easiest perennials to grow and is a good choice for beginners. All it needs is full sun and well-drained soil. It thrives in average to poor soil and is drought tolerant once established. Plants grown in rich soil tend to be tall and floppy. After the flowers have faded, cut the plant back by half. This will likely stimulate a second flush of blooms in late summer.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst-13.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-9.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-10.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-11.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst-13.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-9.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-10.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-amethyst-11.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm"",""perennial-allium-medusa""]}]}" perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n18-22 Inches\n\nSpread:\n32-36 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPeach/Yellow shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nBee Friendly\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nRapid\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSpring - Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nPoor Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nDried Flower\nDrought Tolerant\nEasy To Grow\nFragrant Flowers\nMass Planting\nSalt Tolerant\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nYarrow is one of the easiest perennials to grow and is a good choice for beginners. All it needs is full sun and well-drained soil. It thrives in average to poor soil and is drought tolerant once established. Plants grown in rich soil tend to be tall and floppy. After the flowers have faded, cut the plant back by half. This will likely stimulate a second flush of blooms in late summer.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky-24.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achullea-firefly-peach-sky-3.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-3.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-4.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky-24.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achullea-firefly-peach-sky-3.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-3.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-4.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achullea-firefly-peach-sky-22.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-6.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset3"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achullea-firefly-peach-sky-23.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset3-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset3-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-firefly-peach-sky-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-allium-milnm"",""perennial-allium-medusa""]}]}" perennials-allium,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennial-plants---bareroots"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-43.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-alliums-amsonia-asclepias-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-alliums-amsonia-asclepias-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-43.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-alliums-amsonia-asclepias-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/achillea-alliums-amsonia-asclepias-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""contents"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm"",""perennial-allium-medusa"",""allium-serendipity"",""perennial-amsonia-storm-cloud"",""perennial-asclepias-tuberosa"",""perennial-asclepias-cinderella""]}]}" specialty-acidanthera,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""gladiolus"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-42.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-43.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-44.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-45.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-47.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-42.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-43.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-44.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-45.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/acidanthera-47.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""gladiolus-mardi-gras"",""gladiolus-parrot-mix"",""gladiolus-sunset-mix""]}]}" perennial-aconitum,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n32-40 inches\n\nSpread:\nn/a\n\nFlower Color:\nBlue\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nConsistent water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\nRabbit resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nMid-Late Summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aconitum-fischeri-7.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aconitum-fischeri-22.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aconitum-fischeri-23.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aconitum-fischeri-7.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aconitum-fischeri-22.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aconitum-fischeri-23.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland-shade-perennials"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n58-70 inches\n\nSpread:\nn/a\n\nFlower Color:\nWhite Shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nBlack/Dark shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\nFull shade (< 4 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\nRabbit resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nFall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nPhotos Courtesy of Walter's Gardens Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-46.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-41.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-47.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-52.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-53.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-46.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-41.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-47.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-52.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-hillside-black-beauty-53.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-pink-spike"",""perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix"",""perennial-astilbe-collection""]}]}" perennial-actaea-pink-spike,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland-shade-perennials"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n48-56 inches\n\nSpread:\nn/a\n\nFlower Color:\nPink Shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nDark shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\nFull shade (< 4 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\nRabbit resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nLate Summer - Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-pink-spike-50.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""400""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-pink-spike-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-pink-spike-16.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-pink-spike-50.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""400""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-pink-spike-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/actaea-bugbane-pink-spike-16.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty"",""perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix"",""perennial-astilbe-collection""]}]}" 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Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
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What's in the Mix: (Contains 22 Wildflowers)
Botanical Name Common Name Life Cycle Approx. Height & Color
Calendula officinalis Calendula Annual 2 ft. Yellow/Orange
Centaurea cyanus Blue Cornflower Annual 2 ft. Blue
Clarkia amoena Godetia Annual 1-2 ft. Pink
Chrysanthemum carinatum Painted Daisy Annual 1-3 ft. Multi
Coreopsis tinctoria Plains Coreopsis Annual 2-3 ft. Yellow/Red
Cosmos bipinnatus Wild Cosmos Annual 3-6 ft. Maroon, Pink,White
Cosmos sulphureus Orange Cosmos Annual 3 ft. Orange
Cynoglossum amabile Chinese Forget-me-not Annual 3 ft. BLue
Delphinium consolida Rocket Larkspur Annual 2-3 ft. Multi Pinks
Eschscholzia californica Orange Poppy Tender Perennial 2-3 ft. Orange
Gypsophila elegans Babys Breath Annual 2 ft. White
Gaillardia pulchella Indian Blanket Annual 2-3 ft. Yellow, Reds
Gilia capitata Globe Gilia Annual 1-2 ft. Blue
Helianthus annuus Annual Sunflower Annual 3-4 ft. Yellow
Lavatera trimestirs Rose Mallow Annual 2-3 ft. Pink
Linaria maroccana Baby Snapdragon Annual 1-2 ft. Multi
Linum grandiflorum rubrum Scarlet Flax Annual 1-2 ft. Red
Lupinus succulentus Arroyo Lupine Annual up to 1 ft. Purple
Mirabilis jalapa Four OClocks Annual 1-3 ft. Multi
Nemophila menziesii Baby Blue Eyes Annual up to 1 ft. Blue
Papaver rhoeas Red Poppy Annual 2-3 ft. Red
Silene armeria None-so-pretty Annual 2-3 ft. Pink
\n\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE.\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\n\nSHIPPING and HANDLING CHARGES:\n(For U.S. Only)\n\n

Standard Processing & Shipping (Processed within 72 Hours)

\nOrders of $39 or More! = FREE\n Just $6.95 for orders of $38.99 or Less!\n\n

Priority Processing & Shipping (Processed within 48 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $10.95\n\n

Expedited Processing & Shipping (Processed within 24 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $17.95\n\n

Express, Next Day Etc.

\nPlease Phone or E-mail Customer Service\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\nIn planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with themselves for space!\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!\n\nNote: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now, some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.\n\nWhere to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n\n Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year, and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow.\n\nMaintenance: The amount of work you want to put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum success.\n\n Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area?

\nContact Us for Suggestions!\n\n

What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.?

\nAll wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbird/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!\n\n

Can I grow wildflowers in full shade?

\nThe technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.\n\n

Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive?

\nNO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.\n\n

Can I use more than one mix in the same area?

\nYes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or add additional species - the creativity is endless!\n\n

When Should I Plant?

\nIn Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!\n\n

How do I store my seeds?

\nStore seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!\n\n

What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding?

\nSome only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing season!\n\n

Can I order now and have you ship later?

\nYes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when -  we’re at your service!\n\n

Should I add anything to my soil?

\nTechnically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other additives. (Contact us for details)\n\n

How often should I water?

\nOnce germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.\n\n

Can I transplant my wildflowers?

\nMost wildflowers do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want to see them grow!
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What's in the Mix: (Contains 18 Wildflowers)
Botanical Name Common Name Life Cycle Approx. Height & Color
Cheiranthus allionii Siberian Wallflower Biennial 2 ft. Orange
Chrysanthemum maximum Shasta Daisy Perennial 3 ft. White
Coreopsis lanceolata Lance-leaf Coreopsis Perennial 3 ft. Yellow
Dianthus barbatus Sweet William Biennial 2 ft. Multi Pinks
Digitalis purpurea Foxglove Biennial 3-6 ft. Pinks
Echinacea purpurea Purple Coneflower Perennial 3 ft. Purple
Eschscholzia californica Orange Poppy Tender Perennial 2-3 ft. Orange
Gaillardia aristata Blanket Flower Perennial 2-3 ft. Yellow/Red
Helianthus maximiliani Perennial Sunflower Perennial 3-6 ft. Yellow
Iberis umbellata Candytuft Perennial up to 1 ft. Pink
Liatris spicata Blazing Star Perennial 2-3 ft. Purple/Pink
Linum perenne lewisii Blue Flax Perennial 2 ft. Blue
Lupinus perennis Wild Lupine Perennial 3-4 ft. Purple
Dalea purpurea Purple Prairie Clover Perennial 2-3 ft. Purple
Rudbeckia hirta Black-eyed Susan Biennial 2-3 ft. Yellow
Rudbeckia gloriosa Gloriosa Daisy Perennial 2-3 ft. Yellow/Red
Ratibida columnaris Mexican Hat Perennial 2-3 ft. Red/Yellow
Ratibida columnaris Yellow Prairie Coneflower Perennial 2-3 ft. Yellow
\n\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE.\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\n\nSHIPPING and HANDLING CHARGES:\n(For U.S. Only)\n\n

Standard Processing & Shipping (Processed within 72 Hours)

\nOrders of $39 or More! = FREE\n Just $6.95 for orders of $38.99 or Less!\n\n

Priority Processing & Shipping (Processed within 48 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $10.95\n\n

Expedited Processing & Shipping (Processed within 24 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $17.95\n\n

Express, Next Day Etc.

\nPlease Phone or E-mail Customer Service\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\nIn planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with themselves for space!\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!\n\nNote: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now, some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.\n\nWhere to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n\n Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year, and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow.\n\nMaintenance: The amount of work you want to put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum success.\n\n Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area?

\nContact Us for Suggestions!\n\n

What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.?

\nAll wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbird/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!\n\n

Can I grow wildflowers in full shade?

\nThe technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.\n\n

Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive?

\nNO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.\n\n

Can I use more than one mix in the same area?

\nYes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or add additional species - the creativity is endless!\n\n

When Should I Plant?

\nIn Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!\n\n

How do I store my seeds?

\nStore seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!\n\n

What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding?

\nSome only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing season!\n\n

Can I order now and have you ship later?

\nYes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when -  we’re at your service!\n\n

Should I add anything to my soil?

\nTechnically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other additives. (Contact us for details)\n\n

How often should I water?

\nOnce germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.\n\n

Can I transplant my wildflowers?

\nMost wildflowers do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want to see them grow!
"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-28.gif"",""height"":""1000"",""width"":""1000""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-6.gif"",""height"":""1024"",""width"":""1024""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-47.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-48.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-28.gif"",""height"":""1000"",""width"":""1000""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-6.gif"",""height"":""1024"",""width"":""1024""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-47.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-48.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-49.gif"",""height"":""1024"",""width"":""1024""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-50.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-51.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset3"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-52.gif"",""height"":""1024"",""width"":""1024""},""inset3-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-53.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset3-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-54.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset4"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-55.gif"",""height"":""1024"",""width"":""1024""},""inset4-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-56.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset4-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-perennial-wildflower-seed-mix-57.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""deluxe-mix"",""partial-shade-mix"",""perennial-low-grow-mix""]}]}" combo-all-red,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-wildflower-combo-deals"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-red-combo-1.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-red-combo-12.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-red-combo-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-red-combo-1.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-red-combo-12.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-red-combo-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""save-the-monarch-combo"",""combo-pollinator"",""go-wild-seed-kit""]}]}" save-the-monarchs-wildflower-seed,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""vwfshoponline"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/save-the-monarchs-wildflower-seeds-10.gif"",""height"":""185"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-seeds-for-monarchs-pollinators-2.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/seeds-for-monarchs-pollinators-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/save-the-monarchs-wildflower-seeds-10.gif"",""height"":""185"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-seeds-for-monarchs-pollinators-2.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/seeds-for-monarchs-pollinators-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""contents"",""ids"":[""save-the-monarch-combo"",""combo-pollinator"",""deluxe-mix"",""perennial-native-mix"",""hummingbird-butterfly-mix"",""common-milkweed"",""butterfly-weed"",""swamp-milkweed"",""joe-pyeweed"",""boneset"",""purple-coneflower"",""new-england-aster"",""bee-balm"",""black-eyed-susan"",""blanket-flower"",""blazing-star"",""ox-eye-daisy"",""shasta-daisy"",""garden-phlox-seed"",""yarrow-gold"",""red-yarrow-seed"",""zinnia-color-mix"",""zinnia-cut-n-come-again"",""zinnia-red"",""zinnia-pink"",""zinnia-orange"",""zinnia-purple"",""zinnia-yellow"",""zinnia-white"",""verbena-mix"",""sweet-alyssum"",""pincushion-mix"",""marigold-crackerjack-mix"",""mignonette"",""cosmos-wild"",""orange-cosmos"",""candytuft"",""indian-blanket""]}]}" combo-all-white,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-wildflower-combo-deals"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-white-combo-1.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-white-combo-12.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-white-combo-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-white-combo-1.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/all-white-combo-12.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/all-white-combo-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""save-the-monarch-combo"",""combo-pollinator"",""go-wild-seed-kit""]}]}" allium-drumsticks,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-drumsticks-26.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-drumsticks-27.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-drumsticks-28.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-drumsticks-26.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-drumsticks-27.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-drumsticks-28.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican""]}]}" allium-ambassador,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-ambassador-43.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-ambassador-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-ambassador-45.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-ambassador-43.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-ambassador-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-ambassador-45.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican""]}]}" perennial-allium-blue-eddy,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-a-z"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n8-12 Inches\n\nSpread:\n8-12 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPink/Purple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nLate spring\nEarly summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nContainer\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nDrought Tolerant\nFragrant flowers or foliage\nEasy to grow\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAllium is easy to grow in any well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. It will tolerate periods of drought relatively well. This plant does set viable seed, so you can remove the spent flowers if you do not want it to reseed.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Plant as soon as you can. (Do not over water your perennials.) Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-50.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-20.gif"",""height"":""448"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-36.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-37.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-50.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-20.gif"",""height"":""448"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-36.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-blue-eddy-37.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" allium-caeruleum,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-caeruleum-45.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-caeruleum-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-caeruleum-47.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-caeruleum-45.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-caeruleum-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-caeruleum-47.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican""]}]}" allium-lavender-bubbles,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n12-14 Inches\n\nSpread:\n20-22 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nDark Purple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nMid-Late Summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nContainer\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nDrought Tolerant\nFragrant flowers or foliage\nEasy to grow\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAllium is easy to grow in any well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. It will tolerate periods of drought relatively well. This plant does set viable seed, so you can remove the spent flowers if you do not want it to reseed.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Plant as soon as you can. (Do not over water your perennials.) Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-25.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-28.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-29.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-30.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-25.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-28.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-29.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-30.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-31.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-32.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-lavender-bubbles-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" allium-magic,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-magic-45.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-magic-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-magic-47.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-magic-45.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-magic-46.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-magic-47.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-red-mohican"",""allium-mountain-bells-mix""]}]}" perennial-allium-medusa,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n20-24 Inches\n\nSpread:\n24 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPurple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nMid Summer - Early Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nContainer\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nDrought Tolerant\nFragrant flowers or foliage\nEasy to grow\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAllium is easy to grow in any well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. It will tolerate periods of drought relatively well. This plant does set viable seed, so you can remove the spent flowers if you do not want it to reseed.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-63.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""599""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-64.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-65.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-66.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-67.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-68.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-63.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""599""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-64.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-65.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-66.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-67.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-68.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-69.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-70.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-medusa-71.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm""]}]}" perennial-allium-milnm,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n15-20 Inches\n\nSpread:\n10-15 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPurple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nMid Summer - Late Summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nContainer\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nDrought Tolerant\nFragrant flowers or foliage\nEasy to grow\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAllium is easy to grow in any well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. It will tolerate periods of drought relatively well. This plant does set viable seed, so you can remove the spent flowers if you do not want it to reseed.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-157.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-158.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-159.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-160.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-161.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-162.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-157.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-158.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-159.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-160.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-161.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-162.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-163.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-164.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-millenium-165.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-medusa""]}]}" allium-purple-suze,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-purple-suze-33.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-purple-suze-34.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-purple-suze-35.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-purple-suze-33.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-purple-suze-34.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-purple-suze-35.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican""]}]}" allium-red-mohican,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-red-mohican-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-red-mohican-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-red-mohican-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-red-mohican-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-red-mohican-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-red-mohican-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-mountain-bells-mix""]}]}" allium-serendipity,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n15-20 Inches\n\nSpread:\n10-15 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPurple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nMid-Late Summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nContainer\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nDrought Tolerant\nFragrant flowers or foliage\nEasy to grow\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAllium is easy to grow in any well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. It will tolerate periods of drought relatively well. This plant does set viable seed, so you can remove the spent flowers if you do not want it to reseed.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-27.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-28.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-29.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-27.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-28.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-29.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-30.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-31.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-32.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset3"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-33.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset3-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-34.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset3-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-serendipity-35.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm""]}]}" allium-graceful,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulb-graceful-31.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulb-graceful-32.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulb-graceful-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulb-graceful-31.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulb-graceful-32.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulb-graceful-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican"",""allium-mountain-bells-mix""]}]}" allium-mediterranean-bells,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mediterranean-bells-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mediterranean-bells-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mediterranean-bells-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mediterranean-bells-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mediterranean-bells-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mediterranean-bells-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican""]}]}" allium-mountain-bells-mix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""allium-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mountain-bells-mix-25.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mountain-bells-mix-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mountain-bells-mix-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mountain-bells-mix-25.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mountain-bells-mix-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-bulbs-mountain-bells-mix-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican""]}]}" allium-bulbs,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-flower-bulbs-34.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-flower-bulbs-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-flower-bulbs-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-flower-bulbs-34.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-flower-bulbs-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-flower-bulbs-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""contents"",""ids"":[""allium-graceful"",""allium-magic"",""allium-red-mohican"",""allium-mountain-bells-mix"",""allium-drumsticks"",""allium-ambassador"",""allium-caeruleum"",""allium-purple-suze"",""allium-mediterranean-bells""]}]}" wd14,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""photogallery"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/allium-globe-master-7.gif"",""height"":""187"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-globe-master-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-globe-master-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/allium-globe-master-7.gif"",""height"":""187"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-globe-master-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/allium-globe-master-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" alternative-lawn-mix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-wildflower-mixes-specialized"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""
What's in the Mix: (Contains 16 Wildflowers & 3 Low Grow Grasses)
Botanical Name Common Name Life Cycle Approx. Height & Color
Aurinia saxatile Gold Dust Tender Perennial up to 1 ft. Yellow
Bellis perennis English Daisy Biennial 4-6 in. Multi
Cerastium biebersteinii Snow in Summer Perennial 4-10 in. White
Chrysanthemum multicaule Chrysanthemum Daisy Annual 6-12 in. Yellow
Chrysanthemum paludosum Creeping White Daisy Annual 6-10 in. White
Dimorphotheca sinuata African Daisy Annual up to 1 ft. Yellow
Eschscholzia caespitosa Dwarf Orange Poppy Tender Perennial 1012 in. Orange
Lobularia maritima Sweet Alyssum Annual up to 1 ft. White
Lobularia maritima Purple Sweet Alyssum Annual up to 1 ft. Purple
Phacelia campanularia California Bluebell Annual 6-10 in. Blue
Nemophila maculata Five Spot Annual 6-10 in. White/Purple Spots
Nemophila menziesii Baby Blue Eyes Annual 8-10 in. Blue
Oenothera missouriensis Missouri Primrose Perennial up to 1 ft. Yellow
Silene pendula Nodding Catchfly Tender Perennial up to 1 ft. Pink
Verbena tenuisecta Moss Verbena Perennial 10-12 in. Pink/Purple
Viola cornuta Johnny Jump-Up Perennial 6-8 in. Yellow/Purple
Festuca rubra Creeping Red FescuePerennial
Festuca brevipila Charlot Hard Fescue Charlot Perennial
Festuca ovina var. duriuscula Hard Fescue Heron Perennial
\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE.\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\n\n\nSHIPPING and HANDLING CHARGES:\n(For U.S. Only)\n\n

Standard Processing & Shipping (Processed within 72 Hours)

\nOrders of $39 or More! = FREE\n Just $6.95 for orders of $38.99 or Less!\n\n

Priority Processing & Shipping (Processed within 48 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $10.95\n\n

Expedited Processing & Shipping (Processed within 24 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $17.95\n\n

Express, Next Day Etc.

\nPlease Phone or E-mail Customer Service"",""tab-3-content"":""Where to Plant: Choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-4.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""400""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-9.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-6.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-4.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""400""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-9.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-6.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alternative-lawn-wildflower-grass-seed-mix-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""fall-in-love-mix"",""quick-bloom-wildflower-seed-mix1"",""go-wild-seed-kit""]}]}" seedling21,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seedlings"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alyssum-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alyssum-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alyssum-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/alyssum-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alyssum-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/alyssum-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" amaryllis-aphrodite,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-aphrodite-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-aphrodite-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-aphrodite-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-aphrodite-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-aphrodite-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-aphrodite-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-barbados,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-barbados-32.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-barbados-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-barbados-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-barbados-32.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-barbados-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-barbados-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-flamenco-queen,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-47.gif"",""height"":""401"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-21.gif"",""height"":""800"",""width"":""533""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-50.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-51.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-47.gif"",""height"":""401"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-21.gif"",""height"":""800"",""width"":""533""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-50.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-flamenco-queen-51.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba"",""amaryllis-rilona""]}]}" amaryllis-gervase,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-gervase-34.gif"",""height"":""415"",""width"":""282""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-gervase-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-gervase-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-gervase-34.gif"",""height"":""415"",""width"":""282""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-gervase-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-gervase-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-lagoon,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-47.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-50.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-47.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-50.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-lagoon-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-magic-green,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-magic-green-32.gif"",""height"":""401"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-magic-green-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-magic-green-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-magic-green-32.gif"",""height"":""401"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-magic-green-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-magic-green-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-naranja,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-47.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-50.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-47.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-50.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-naranja-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-samba"",""amaryllis-rilona""]}]}" amaryllis-picotee,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-picotee-25.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-picotee-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-picotee-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-picotee-25.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-picotee-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-picotee-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllils-red-peacock,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-47.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-50.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-47.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-50.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-red-peacock-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-rilona,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-65.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-66.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-67.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-68.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-69.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-70.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-65.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-66.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-67.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-68.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-69.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rilona-70.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-rosy-star,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rosy-star-48.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rosy-star-49.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rosy-star-50.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rosy-star-48.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rosy-star-49.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-rosy-star-50.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-samba,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-32.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-35.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-36.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-37.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-32.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-35.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-36.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-samba-37.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-rilona""]}]}" amaryllis-bulbs,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-bulbs-36.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-bulbs-37.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-bulbs-38.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-bulbs-36.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-bulbs-37.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-bulbs-38.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""contents"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba"",""amaryllis-rilona"",""amaryllis-nymph"",""amaryllis-lagoon"",""amaryllils-red-peacock"",""amaryllis-double-dragon"",""amaryllis-gervase"",""amaryllis-aphrodite"",""amaryllis-rosy-star"",""amaryllis-magic-green"",""amaryllis-picotee"",""amaryllis-barbados""]}]}" amaryllis-double-dragon,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-double-dragon-46.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-double-dragon-47.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-double-dragon-48.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-double-dragon-46.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-double-dragon-47.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-double-dragon-48.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" amaryllis-nymph,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""amaryllis-bulbs"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-nymph-25.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-nymph-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-nymph-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-nymph-25.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-nymph-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amaryllis-nymph-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""amaryllis-flamenco-queen"",""amaryllis-naranja"",""amaryllis-samba""]}]}" 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perennial-amsonia-storm-cloud,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n24-30 Inches\n\nSpread:\n38-42 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nBlue shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nConsistent water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nN/A\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nLate Spring - Early Summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nPoor Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nNative\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nCut Foliage\nEasy To Grow\nMass Planting\nFocal Point\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAmsonia thrives in most gardens with little care. It is low-maintenance, easy to grow and trouble-free. Plant it in full sun or partial shade and moist soil of average fertility. If grown in too much shade or very rich soil, its habit will be open and floppy. This plant grows fairly large but it will not need to be divided for many years. Cutting the stems back to within 6-8\"" of the ground after flowering will result in fuller growth.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-amsonia-storm-cloud-12.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-13.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-15.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-17.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-amsonia-storm-cloud-12.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-13.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-15.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-17.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-18.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/amsonia-storm-cloud-20.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm""]}]}" 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Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
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Common Questions
\n

What are fall planting bulbs?

\nFall planting bulbs are plant species that need to be planted in the ground in the Fall before the first hard frost. Bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths, iris, allium, etc. require a cold period in order to form roots and based on lighting and warmth conditions will bloom in the spring. After flowering, the bulbs store food in their underground organs so they can grow again the following year. Therefore, bulbs are only available during the fall, after they are harvested in Holland over the summer, inspected and then packed for shipment to the United States. If bulbs are not planted within a year after harvesting, the bulb will have been dormant for too long and its chances of being able to form roots again will be minimal.\n\""\""\n\n

What should I look for when buying fall planting bulbs?

\nLook for bulbs that are firm, if they appear soft that is a sign of a rotting bulb which may occur when bulbs are not kept in a cool dry place. Also, look for bulbs that are not bruised. Tulips for example still have a layer of skin around them like an onion, this helps protect them from bruising, if the skin is removed it is ok.  As a consumer it is important to understand bulb sizing. While bigger is not necessarily better, it is important to understand what is and what is not a consumer value. For example, top size tulip bulbs have a circumference of 12 centimeters or more. If you are trying to showcase a set of 10 tulips in your yard, look for top size bulbs. On the other hand, if you would like to plant a large bed of tulips for cut flowers or just to display a carpet of spring color, smaller tulips with a minimum circumference of 10 centimeters are perfectly acceptable. All of our fall bulbs are top size at the Vermont Wildflower Farm and we do our best to bring you the most accurate information about each species possible, but local soil conditions, time of planting and regional weather patterns will affect final results in an individual's garden. Use the information on each species tag when you receive your bulbs as a good guideline as to what you need for optimal success.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nFall bulbs must be planted in the fall before the first hard frost. It is best to wait until the outside temperature does not get above 65 degrees anymore. If there is a hard frost in a the first couple weeks after planting, mulch your beds and remove in the spring. Light morning frosts will not hurt the bulbs.\n\n

Oops! I forgot to plant my bulbs this fall. What should I do?

\nFall Bulbs really need to be planted within 6 months of purchase. Bulbs are a dormant but still very much a living product that need the right balance of water and soil. Leaving bulbs out of the ground for too long will cause them to loose their hydration and die. Optimally bulbs should be planted 6 weeks before the first hard frost. If your ground is frozen in December for example, try to wait for a thaw or break in the weather and plant them a little deeper than normal. If this seems an unlikely scenario, plant your bulbs in pots, place them in a cool (not freezing) dark place and water sparingly throughout the winter. When the ground thaws in the spring you can place the pots in the ground or on your patio. As a last resort you can plant the bulbs in the spring when the ground thaws but do not expect many flowers that spring. Feed with bulb care fertilizer and you should have better results next spring.\n\n

Why can't I plant fall bulbs in the spring?

\nBulbs require a minimum cold period of 6 weeks to form roots. If you plant bulbs in the spring they will not have sufficient cold weeks to grow their roots. It also means that the bulbs have been dormant for over 9 months. This long period of dormancy will also affect bulb performance.\n\n

Its not even spring, and my bulbs are coming up, what should I do?

\nThere is nothing you can do, if the weather is unusually warm some bulbs will be confused and start to sprout. The good news is that this means that your bulbs have a good root foundation and no snow to shovel! Most bulbs are resilient and will bloom again in the spring.\n\n

What can I do to prevent deer, rodents, rabbits and other animals from eating my bulbs and flowers?

\nThe best remedy for preventing animals from eating your bulbs is to plant bulbs they do not like to eat. While you can spray them with soap, pepper or a chemical, this tends to wash off after the first rainfall and can be time consuming. Here is a list of bulbs that deer, rabbits and other rodents do not like to eat:\n•Daffodils\n•Narcissus\n•Hyacinths\n•Allium (all types)\n•Fritillaria\n•Fall Flowering Crocus\n•Iris (all types)\n•Anemones (all types)\n•Scilla (all types)\n•Snowdrops\n•Eranthus\n•Chinadoxa\n•Muscari Grape Hyacinths\n\n

What type of fertilizer should I use?

\nFertilizer is not necessary but for increased performance a small application of Bulb Booster or bone meal is acceptable. It is more important to make sure the pH level of your soil is correct.\n\n

What is the right pH level of soil for bulbs?

\nHaving the right pH level in your soil is important to bring out the true flower color. The ideal pH level for bulbs is between 6 and 7. To check your pH level, bring a soil sample to your local garden center or purchase an inexpensive testing kit. Click here to purchase in our garden products section.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed in the spring?

\nLet the leaves die down naturally, do not cut them off or mow over them. After bulbs have bloomed it is important to let them rest because during this period, the bulb is gathering nutrients from the soil and growing so that it can bloom again next year.\n\n

My Bearded Iris's arrived and why do they look like that?

\nBearded Iris's are rhizomes and come fresh from the fields they were dug from for late summer planting. The top growth has been cut and may look dry but rest assured they are healthy. Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down in the soil. Insure that you don't plant them too deep. Just follow planting instructions/tips that come with each rhizome and you will have big, beautiful Bearded Iris blooms next spring!
\n\n\nBILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/anemones-blanda-mix-43.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/anemones-blanda-mix-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/anemones-blanda-mix-45.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/anemones-blanda-mix-43.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""274""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/anemones-blanda-mix-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/anemones-blanda-mix-45.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""camassia"",""giant-grape-hyacinth"",""muscari-delft-blue-mix""]}]}" specialty-anemone-de-caen-spring,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
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What's in the Mix: (Contains 14 Wildflowers)
Botanical Name Common Name Life Cycle Approx. Height & Color
Calendula officinalis Calendula Annual 2 ft. Yellow/Orange
Centaurea cyanus Blue Cornflower Annual 2 ft. Blue
Clarkia amoena Godetia Annual 1-2 ft. Pink
Coreopsis tinctoria Plains Coreopsis Annual 2-3 ft. Yellow/Red
Cynoglossum amabile Chinese Forget-me-not Annual 3 ft. Blue
Eschscholzia californica Orange Poppy Tender Perennial 2-3 ft. Orange
Gypsophila elegans Babys Breath Annual 2 ft. White
Linaria maroccana Baby Snapdragon Annual 1-2 ft. Multi
Lobularia maritima Sweet Alyssum Annual up to 1ft. White
Nemophila menziesii Baby Blue Eyes Annual up to 1 ft. Blue
Papaver rhoeas Red Poppy Annual 2-3 ft. Red
Phlox drummondii Drummond Phlox Annual 1-2 ft. Red
Silene armeria None-so-pretty Annual 2-3 ft. Pink
Trifolium incarnatum Crimson Clover Annual 1 ft. Red
\n\n\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE.\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\n\n\nSHIPPING and HANDLING CHARGES:\n(For U.S. Only)\n\n

Standard Processing & Shipping (Processed within 72 Hours)

\nOrders of $39 or More! = FREE\n Just $6.95 for orders of $38.99 or Less!\n\n

Priority Processing & Shipping (Processed within 48 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $10.95\n\n

Expedited Processing & Shipping (Processed within 24 Hours)

\nAny Order Size or Amount = $17.95\n\n

Express, Next Day Etc.

\nPlease Phone or E-mail Customer Service\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\nIn planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with themselves for space!\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!\n\nNote: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now, some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.\n\nWhere to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n\n Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year, and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow.\n\nMaintenance: The amount of work you want to put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum success.\n\n Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area?

\nContact Us for Suggestions!\n\n

What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.?

\nAll wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbird/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!\n\n

Can I grow wildflowers in full shade?

\nThe technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.\n\n

Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive?

\nNO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.\n\n

Can I use more than one mix in the same area?

\nYes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or add additional species - the creativity is endless!\n\n

When Should I Plant?

\nIn Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!\n\n

How do I store my seeds?

\nStore seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!\n\n

What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding?

\nSome only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing season!\n\n

Can I order now and have you ship later?

\nYes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when -  we’re at your service!\n\n

Should I add anything to my soil?

\nTechnically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other additives. (Contact us for details)\n\n

How often should I water?

\nOnce germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.\n\n

Can I transplant my wildflowers?

\nMost wildflowers do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want to see them grow!
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Planting native grasses has become increasingly popular over the last few years as they have low environmental impact. You can also use some grasses like rye as a green manure over the winter months to repair or rectify your soil. Farmers have done this for years.\n\nPreparation:\nPrepare the area where you would like to plant native grass seed as you would for a wildflower seed mix. Remove all existing growth, either by hand, roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and till again as in step one before reseeding to have the best shot at eradicating them. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling.\n\nSowing:\nOnce your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, its important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, youre giving possible weeds an advantage over the new seed you wish to sow. You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. Put your grass seed into two buckets; add in any wildflower seed and some sand. Usually 4 parts sand to 1 part seed. The sand does two things: It dilutes the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since its light-colored, it shows you where youve been on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one buckets mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, be sure you have a good seed to soil contact. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. If strictly sowing a grass mixture or an individual grass species, you can lightly rake in or cover your grass seed lightly.\n\nWatering: Keep your new area watered for the first month or two and then it should be self-sufficient unless you are having a drought.\n\n

What in the World is Green Manure or Cover Crops and Why Should I Care?

\nGreen manure crops may include legumes such as cowpeas, soybeans, annual sweet clover, vetch, etc. as well as non-leguminous crops such as sudangrass, millet, sorghum, and buckwheat. Legumes are often used as green manure crops for their nitrogen fixing abilities, while non-leguminous crops are used primarily for weed suppression and addition of biomass to the soil. Green manures usually perform multiple functions that include soil improvement and soil protection: Incorporation of cover crops into the soil is immediately followed by an increase in abundance of soil microorganisms that aid in the decomposition of this fresh material. The degradation of plant material allows the nutrients held within the green manure to be released and made available to the succeeding crop. This additional decomposition also allows for the re-incorporation of nutrients that are found in the soil in a particular form such as nitrogen, potassium , phosphorus , calcium , magnesium , and sulfur. Microbial activity in the soil also leads to the formation of mycelium and viscous materials which benefit the health of the soil by increasing its soil structure (i.e. by aggregation). Soil that is well- aggregated has increased aeration and water infiltration rates, and is more easily turned or tilled than non- aggregated soil. Further aeration of the soil results from the ability of the root systems of many green manure crops to efficiently penetrate compact soils. The amount of humus found in the soil also increases with higher rates of decomposition, which is beneficial for the growth of the crop succeeding the green manure crop. Green manure crops are also useful for weed control, erosion prevention, and reduction of insect pests and diseases. The deep rooting properties of many green manure crops make them efficient at suppressing weed. Green manure crops often provide habitat for many native pollinators as well as predatory beneficial insects, which allow for a reduction in the input of insecticides where cover crops are planted. Some green manures are also successful at suppressing plant diseases. Incorporation of green manures into a farming system can drastically reduce, if not eliminate, the need for additional products such as supplemental fertilizers and pesticides. Organic farming also relies on soil health and cycling of nutrients through the soil using natural processes. Green manures perform the vital function of fertilization, in concert with the addition of animal manures if those are used. Green manure also brings other organic advantages with it depending upon the plant type used. Buckwheat, for example, prevents the spread of weeds, and Winter wheat and Winter rye can also be used for grazing.\n\n\n

Planting a Cover Crop or Green Manure Crop?

\n\nWhen Do I Plant?\nPlant in Spring - Fall\n\nHow Do I Plant?\nSame as the instructions above.\n\nWhat is the Next Step?\nSome of your cover crops may slow their growth in cold temps but will re-start again in early spring. In mid-late spring, mow down your cover crops before they go to seed and then rototill them into the soil in preparation for new garden areas. You will need to wait about 3-5 weeks after tilling before you plant anything new in this area. As most cover crops or green manures add beneficial nutrients to the soil, this allows the nutrients added to be released into the soil and some of them like rye which keep down other seeds (like weeds) from germinating will no longer be present in the soil after a few weeks. After you wait this time amount, go ahead and plant your new areas according to the proper instructions for what you are planting.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/annual-ryegrass-1.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/annual-ryegrass-seeds-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/annual-ryegrass-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/annual-ryegrass-1.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/annual-ryegrass-seeds-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/annual-ryegrass-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""autumn-bentgrass"",""big-bluestem"",""blue-eyed-grass""]}]}" 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wd100,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""photogallery"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/approaching-the-pond-7.gif"",""height"":""453"",""width"":""604""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/approaching-the-pond-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/approaching-the-pond-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/approaching-the-pond-7.gif"",""height"":""453"",""width"":""604""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/approaching-the-pond-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/approaching-the-pond-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland-shade-perennials"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n14-18 Inches\n\nSpread:\n12-18 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nMulticolored\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\nConsistent water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nAttracts hummingbirds\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nRabbit resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nLate spring\nEarly summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nContainer\nCut flower or foliage\nMass Planting\nSpecimen or focal point\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nColumbine is easy to grow in loose, average to rich, well drained soil. Heavy or soggy soils will hasten their demise. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade, though light shade will prolong the flowering time. In the fall, cut plants back to their basal foliage. In the spring, remove only the dead leaves. Columbine is sometimes affected by leaf miners. If this happens, cut the foliage all the way back to the ground and discard it. Healthy, new growth will emerge quickly. Propagate by sowing named seed rather than by division; mature plants do not like to be disturbed.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walter's Gardens Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aquilegia-mckana-mix-64.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aquilegia-mckana-mix-66.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aquilegia-mckana-mix-59.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aquilegia-mckana-mix-64.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aquilegia-mckana-mix-66.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aquilegia-mckana-mix-59.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty"",""perennial-actaea-pink-spike"",""perennial-astilbe-collection""]}]}" seedling3,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seedlings"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-14.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-14.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" flower2,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflowers-in-bloom"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-13.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-13.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arroyo-lupine-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" arugulapacket,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""veggies---herbs-herb-seed"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arugula-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""212""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arugula-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arugula-seeds-12.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/arugula-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""212""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arugula-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/arugula-seeds-12.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""anise-packet"",""arugula-organic-packet"",""basil-spicy-globe-bush-like-packet""]}]}" perennial-asclepias-cinderella,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n3-5 Feet\n\nSpread:\n1-3 Feet\n\nFlower Color:\nPink shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\nConsistent water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nAttracts hummingbirds\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nMidsummer\nLate summer\nEarly fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nPoor Soil\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBog plant\nBorder plants\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nFragrant flowers or foliage\nMass Planting\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAsclepias incarnata grows best in moist to wet soils, but will tolerate drier conditions. This species, unlike A. tuberosa, prefers humus-rich soil. A full day of sun is best. Once established, Swamp Milkweed requires little care. Though it is perfectly cold-hardy in the north, mulching plants in winter will help prevent frost-heaving. In spring, trim back last year's growth and await the beautiful new foliage which will appear a bit later than other perennials.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-72.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-73.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-74.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-42.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-59.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-60.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-72.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-73.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-74.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-42.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-59.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-cinderella-60.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm""]}]}" perennial-asclepias-tuberosa,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-allium"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n2 Feet\n\nSpread:\n2 Feet\n\nFlower Color:\nGold/Orange Shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nAttracts hummingbirds\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nEarly summer\nMidsummer\nLate summer\n\nLooking for seasonal interest?:\nAttractive Seed Heads\n\nHow's your soil?:\nPoor Soil\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder plants\nCut flower or foliage\nDried flower or seed heads\nDrought Tolerant\nMass Planting\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAsclepias tuberosa is a prairie plant native to North America from S. Ontario and New York, west to N. Dakota, southwest to Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico, and south to Florida (zones 3-9). Found naturally in dry fields and on slopes, it does not require rich soil or much moisture. A full day of sun is best along with a slightly acidic, sandy-humus-loam that is well-drained (especially in winter). Once established, Butterfly Weed is drought tolerant and requires little care. Though it is perfectly cold-hardy in the north, mulching plants in winter will help prevent frost-heaving. In spring, trim back last year's growth and await the beautiful new foliage which will appear quite a bit later than other perennials. It's a good idea to grow this perennial from seed; division, though seldomly needed, is difficult because of the plant's long tap root.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-67.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-68.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-69.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-70.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-71.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-72.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-67.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-68.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-69.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-70.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-71.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-72.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-73.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-74.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-75.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset3"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-76.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset3-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-77.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset3-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asclepias-tuberosa-78.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-achillea-firefly-amethyst"",""perennial-achillea-firefly-peach-sky"",""perennial-allium-milnm""]}]}" lilium-cogoleto,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-lilies"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-cogoleto-41.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-cogoleto-42.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-cogoleto-43.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-cogoleto-41.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-cogoleto-42.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-cogoleto-43.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""lilium-forever-susan"",""lilium-golden-matrix"",""lilium-mascara""]}]}" lilium-forever-susan,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-lilies"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-forever-susan-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-forever-susan-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-forever-susan-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-forever-susan-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-forever-susan-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-forever-susan-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""lilium-cogoleto"",""lilium-golden-matrix"",""lilium-mascara""]}]}" lilium-golden-matrix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-lilies"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-golden-matrix-13.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-golden-matrix-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-golden-matrix-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-golden-matrix-13.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-golden-matrix-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-golden-matrix-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""lilium-forever-susan"",""lilium-cogoleto"",""lilium-mascara""]}]}" lilium-mascara,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-lilies"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-mascara-13.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-mascara-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-mascara-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-mascara-13.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-mascara-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-mascara-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""lilium-forever-susan"",""lilium-cogoleto"",""lilium-golden-matrix""]}]}" lilium-nettys-pride,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-lilies"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-nettys-pride-12.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-nettys-pride-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-nettys-pride-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-nettys-pride-12.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-nettys-pride-5.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/asiatic-lily-nettys-pride-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""lilium-forever-susan"",""lilium-cogoleto"",""lilium-golden-matrix""]}]}" perennial-lilium-spring-pink,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-lilies"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-spring-pink-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-spring-pink-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-spring-pink-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-spring-pink-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-spring-pink-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/lilium-asiatic-spring-pink-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""lilium-forever-susan"",""lilium-cogoleto"",""lilium-golden-matrix""]}]}" perennial-aster-purple-dome,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n18-24 Inches\n\nSpread:\n12-18 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPurple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nAttract Bees\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nn/a\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nLate Sumer - Mid Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nContainer\nCut Flower\nMass Planting\nSalt Tolerant\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nAsters perform best in rich, evenly moist soil and full sun. Give them lots of room to grow; good air circulation will help to prevent powdery mildew. Though this cultivar has a bushy, compact habit, it may still require staking. To promote dense growth that is less likely to flop, pinch plants back from late spring until July 4th.\nPlants should be divided every couple of years in the spring to maintain their health and vigor.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Plant as soon as you can. (Do not over water your perennials.) Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-aster-purple-dome-11.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-purple-dome-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-purple-dome-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-aster-purple-dome-11.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-purple-dome-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-purple-dome-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" aster-powderpuff-mix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-individual-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/china-aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-26.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-9.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/china-aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-26.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-9.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/aster-powderpuff-mix-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""cosmos-dwarf-mix"",""evening-scented-stock"",""sweet-pea-mix""]}]}" perennial-astilbe-collection,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland-shade-perennials"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n32-40 inches\n\nSpread:\nn/a\n\nFlower Color:\nMix of Red/White/Pink Shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\nFull shade (< 4 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\nRabbit resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nEarly - Mid Summer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/astilbe-collection-41.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/astilbe-mix-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/astilbe-mix-40.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/astilbe-collection-41.gif"",""height"":""500"",""width"":""500""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/astilbe-mix-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/astilbe-mix-40.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty"",""perennial-actaea-pink-spike"",""perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix""]}]}" 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wd114,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""photogallery"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-beauties-7.gif"",""height"":""453"",""width"":""604""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-beauties-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-beauties-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-beauties-7.gif"",""height"":""453"",""width"":""604""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-beauties-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-beauties-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" autumn-bentgrass,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""individual-grass-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""Grasses are used for conservation, erosion control, creating natural areas and for wildlife habitats. Planting native grasses has become increasingly popular over the last few years as they have low environmental impact. You can also use some grasses like rye as a green manure over the winter months to repair or rectify your soil. Farmers have done this for years.\n\nPreparation:\nPrepare the area where you would like to plant native grass seed as you would for a wildflower seed mix. Remove all existing growth, either by hand, roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and till again as in step one before reseeding to have the best shot at eradicating them. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling.\n\nSowing:\nOnce your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, its important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, youre giving possible weeds an advantage over the new seed you wish to sow. You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. Put your grass seed into two buckets; add in any wildflower seed and some sand. Usually 4 parts sand to 1 part seed. The sand does two things: It dilutes the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since its light-colored, it shows you where youve been on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one buckets mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, be sure you have a good seed to soil contact. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. If strictly sowing a grass mixture or an individual grass species, you can lightly rake in or cover your grass seed lightly.\n\nWatering: Keep your new area watered for the first month or two and then it should be self-sufficient unless you are having a drought.\n\n

What in the World is Green Manure or Cover Crops and Why Should I Care?

\nGreen manure crops may include legumes such as cowpeas, soybeans, annual sweet clover, vetch, etc. as well as non-leguminous crops such as sudangrass, millet, sorghum, and buckwheat. Legumes are often used as green manure crops for their nitrogen fixing abilities, while non-leguminous crops are used primarily for weed suppression and addition of biomass to the soil. Green manures usually perform multiple functions that include soil improvement and soil protection: Incorporation of cover crops into the soil is immediately followed by an increase in abundance of soil microorganisms that aid in the decomposition of this fresh material. The degradation of plant material allows the nutrients held within the green manure to be released and made available to the succeeding crop. This additional decomposition also allows for the re-incorporation of nutrients that are found in the soil in a particular form such as nitrogen, potassium , phosphorus , calcium , magnesium , and sulfur. Microbial activity in the soil also leads to the formation of mycelium and viscous materials which benefit the health of the soil by increasing its soil structure (i.e. by aggregation). Soil that is well- aggregated has increased aeration and water infiltration rates, and is more easily turned or tilled than non- aggregated soil. Further aeration of the soil results from the ability of the root systems of many green manure crops to efficiently penetrate compact soils. The amount of humus found in the soil also increases with higher rates of decomposition, which is beneficial for the growth of the crop succeeding the green manure crop. Green manure crops are also useful for weed control, erosion prevention, and reduction of insect pests and diseases. The deep rooting properties of many green manure crops make them efficient at suppressing weed. Green manure crops often provide habitat for many native pollinators as well as predatory beneficial insects, which allow for a reduction in the input of insecticides where cover crops are planted. Some green manures are also successful at suppressing plant diseases. Incorporation of green manures into a farming system can drastically reduce, if not eliminate, the need for additional products such as supplemental fertilizers and pesticides. Organic farming also relies on soil health and cycling of nutrients through the soil using natural processes. Green manures perform the vital function of fertilization, in concert with the addition of animal manures if those are used. Green manure also brings other organic advantages with it depending upon the plant type used. Buckwheat, for example, prevents the spread of weeds, and Winter wheat and Winter rye can also be used for grazing.\n\n\n

Planting a Cover Crop or Green Manure Crop?

\n\nWhen Do I Plant?\nPlant in Spring - Fall\n\nHow Do I Plant?\nSame as the instructions above.\n\nWhat is the Next Step?\nSome of your cover crops may slow their growth in cold temps but will re-start again in early spring. In mid-late spring, mow down your cover crops before they go to seed and then rototill them into the soil in preparation for new garden areas. You will need to wait about 3-5 weeks after tilling before you plant anything new in this area. As most cover crops or green manures add beneficial nutrients to the soil, this allows the nutrients added to be released into the soil and some of them like rye which keep down other seeds (like weeds) from germinating will no longer be present in the soil after a few weeks. After you wait this time amount, go ahead and plant your new areas according to the proper instructions for what you are planting.\n\n\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-bentgrass-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-bentgrass-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-bentgrass-seeds-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-bentgrass-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-bentgrass-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-bentgrass-seeds-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""annual-ryegrass"",""big-bluestem"",""blue-eyed-grass""]}]}" perennial-autumn-fern,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland-shade-perennials"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n24 Inches\n\nSpread:\n24 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nna\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n5,6,7,8,9,10\n\nSun or Shade?:\nPart shade\nFull shade\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\nConsistent water needs\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nAll Season Foliage\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nContainer\nCut Foliage\nGround Cove\nAttractive Foliage\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nThis fern thrives in neutral to acidic, loose, richly organic soil and part sun. The soil should remain moist but well-drained, though it will tolerate drier soils once it is established. Mulching plants in the winter will help to conserve moisture and keep weeds from taking hold there.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-autumn-fern-20.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-6.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-autumn-fern-21.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-autumn-fern-20.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-6.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-1.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-autumn-fern-21.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/autumn-fern-brilliance-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty"",""perennial-actaea-pink-spike"",""perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix""]}]}" 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Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-bernices-legacy-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-bernice-s-legacy-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-bernice-s-legacy-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-bernices-legacy-24.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-bernice-s-legacy-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-bernice-s-legacy-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-best-bet,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""

CHARACTERISTICS

\nHeight:\n32-40inches\nSpread:\nn/a inches\nFlower Color:\nBlue and White\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10\nLight Requirements:\nFull Sun\nPartial Shade\nWater Requirements:\nAverage water needs\nAttracts:\nn/a\nResistant:\nDeer Resistant\nRabbit Resistant\nGrowth Rate:\nMedium\nBloom Time:\nMid Spring - Early Summer (RE-BLOOMER)\nSoil Requirements:\nAverage Soil\n\n

GREAT FOR:

\nBorder plants\nCut flower or foliage\nMass Planting\nSpecimen or focal point\n\n

TIPS & MAINTENANCE

\nBearded Iris's are a low-maintenance perennial prized for their flowers. They grow on tall, sword-shaped leaves. Iris roots are called rhizomes and sit just below the soil surface. When planting Bearded iris's they should be high enough that the top of the rhizome is slightly above ground level. Be sure not to bury the entire rhizome as your iris will not grow.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-best-bet-28.gif"",""height"":""482"",""width"":""200""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-best-bet-30.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-best-bet-31.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-best-bet-28.gif"",""height"":""482"",""width"":""200""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-best-bet-30.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-best-bet-31.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-iris-sensation"",""perennial-iris-golden-zebra"",""perennial-iria-caesars-brother""]}]}" bearded-iris-beverly-sills,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""

CHARACTERISTICS

\nHeight:\n32-34 inches\nSpread:\nn/a inches\nFlower Color:\nCoral Pink\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10\nLight Requirements:\nFull Sun\nPartial Shade\nWater Requirements:\nAverage water needs\nAttracts:\nn/a\nResistant:\nDeer Resistant\nRabbit Resistant\nGrowth Rate:\nMedium\nBloom Time:\nMid Spring - Early Summer (RE-BLOOMER)\nSoil Requirements:\nAverage Soil\n\n

GREAT FOR:

\nBorder plants\nCut flower or foliage\nMass Planting\nSpecimen or focal point\n\n

TIPS & MAINTENANCE

\nBearded Iris's are a low-maintenance perennial prized for their flowers. They grow on tall, sword-shaped leaves. Iris roots are called rhizomes and sit just below the soil surface. When planting Bearded iris's they should be high enough that the top of the rhizome is slightly above ground level. Be sure not to bury the entire rhizome as your iris will not grow."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-75.gif"",""height"":""482"",""width"":""200""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-77.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-78.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-17.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-57.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-58.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-75.gif"",""height"":""482"",""width"":""200""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-77.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-78.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-17.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-57.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-beverly-sills-58.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-iris-sensation"",""perennial-iris-golden-zebra"",""perennial-iria-caesars-brother""]}]}" bearded-iris-clarence,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-clarence-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-clarence-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-clarence-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-clarence-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-clarence-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-clarence-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""273""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-harvest-of-memories-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-immortality,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-immortality-33.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-immortality-34.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-immortality-35.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-immortality-33.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-immortality-34.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-immortality-35.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-matinata,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""

CHARACTERISTICS

\nHeight:\n32-34 inches\nSpread:\nn/a inches\nFlower Color:\nPurple\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10\nLight Requirements:\nFull Sun\nPartial Shade\nWater Requirements:\nAverage water needs\nAttracts:\nn/a\nResistant:\nDeer Resistant\nRabbit Resistant\nGrowth Rate:\nMedium\nBloom Time:\nMid Spring - Early Summer (RE-BLOOMER)\nSoil Requirements:\nAverage Soil\n\n

GREAT FOR:

\nBorder plants\nCut flower or foliage\nMass Planting\nSpecimen or focal point\n\n

TIPS & MAINTENANCE

\nBearded Iris's are a low-maintenance perennial prized for their flowers. They grow on tall, sword-shaped leaves. Iris roots are called rhizomes and sit just below the soil surface. When planting Bearded iris's they should be high enough that the top of the rhizome is slightly above ground level. Be sure not to bury the entire rhizome as your iris will not grow.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-matinata-16.gif"",""height"":""482"",""width"":""200""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-matinata-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-matinata-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-matinata-16.gif"",""height"":""482"",""width"":""200""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-matinata-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-matinata-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-iris-sensation"",""perennial-iris-golden-zebra"",""perennial-iria-caesars-brother""]}]}" bearded-iris-october-splendor,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-october-splendor-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-october-splendor-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-october-splendor-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-october-splendor-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-october-splendor-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-october-splendor-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-ozark-rebounder-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-persian-berry,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-persian-berry-32.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-persian-berry-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-persian-berry-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-persian-berry-32.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""272""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-persian-berry-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bearded-iris-persian-berry-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""dark-blue-iris-mix"",""dwarf-iris-mix"",""iris-katharine-hodgkin""]}]}" bearded-iris-victoria-falls,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""bearded-iris"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""

Planting Your Bearded Iris

\n\nBearded Iris are tough plants and easy to grow. Plant them shallowly, keep them relatively dry, and theyll thrive! Plant your iriss in full sun which is best (they can take some shade or partial shade). The area should be dry and have good drainage. The iris should be able to dry out quickly after a rain storm. Any soil will do as long as it is not soggy. Bearded Iris rhizomes hate to be wet! Spacing should be 18-24 apart.\n\nDig a hole & plant your rhizome with the growth facing up and spread out the roots in the soil. The top of the rhizome should not be buried but showing. Press dirt firmly over the roots to hold iris in place keeping the rhizome exposed. If you have several plants, plant them all facing the same way. This prevents over-crowding too soon and is esthetically more pleasing.\n\nNote: The rhizomes you have received are very healthy. Do not worry if the top growth is small, dried or is turning brown. This is normal!\n\n
Happy Planting Now for Beautiful Bloom in Spring!
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perennial-monarda-cherry-pops,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-bee-balm"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n14-16 Inches\n\nSpread:\n1.5 - 2 Feet\n\nFlower Color:\nRed shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nBlue shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n4,5,6,7,8,9\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\nConsistent water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts Butterflies\nAttracts Hummingbirds\nBee Friendly\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSummer\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nCut Foliage\nFragrant Flowers\nFragrant Foliage\nMass Planting\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nMonarda can be found naturally along riverbanks and enjoys this rich, organic, moist soil. However, it will grow in average soil as well. Full sun is best, but light shade is tolerated. Plants tend to spread more quickly in the shade, however. Most monardas multiply rapidly either by underground stems or self-sowing. Deadheading spent blooms will prolong the bloom time.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc."",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-47.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-50.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-47.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-48.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-49.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-50.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-51.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-52.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-53.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-54.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-cherry-pops-monarda-55.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-buddleia-lavender-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-pink-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-queen-of-hearts""]}]}" perennials-bee-balm,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennial-plants---bareroots"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-echinacea-56.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-butterfly-bushes-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-butterfly-bushes-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-echinacea-56.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-butterfly-bushes-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-butterfly-bushes-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""contents"",""ids"":[""perennial-buddleia-lavender-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-pink-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-queen-of-hearts"",""perennial-monarda-cherry-pops"",""perennial-monarda-bubblegum-blast"",""perennial-monarda-leading-lady"",""perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry""]}]}" perennial-monarda-bubblegum-blast,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-bee-balm"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n24 Inches\n\nSpread:\n32 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPink/Light Pink shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nAttracts hummingbirds\nBee Friendly\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nRapid\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSummer - Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nPoor Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nDried Flower\nDrought Tolerant\nEasy To Grow\nFragrant Flowers\nMass Planting\nSalt Tolerant\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nMonarda can be found naturally along riverbanks and enjoys this rich, organic, moist soil. However, it will grow in average soil as well. Full sun is best, but light shade is tolerated. Plants tend to spread more quickly in the shade, however. Most monardas multiply rapidly either by underground stems or self-sowing. Deadheading spent blooms will prolong the bloom time.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-bubblegum-blast-12.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-bubblegum-blast-monarda-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-bubblegum-blast-monarda-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-bubblegum-blast-12.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-bubblegum-blast-monarda-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-bubblegum-blast-monarda-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-buddleia-lavender-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-pink-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-queen-of-hearts""]}]}" perennial-monarda-leading-lady,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-bee-balm"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n10-14 Inches\n\nSpread:\n22-28 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPink/Light Pink shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nBee Friendly\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nRapid\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSpring - Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nPoor Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nDried Flower\nDrought Tolerant\nEasy To Grow\nFragrant Flowers\nMass Planting\nSalt Tolerant\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nMonarda can be found naturally along riverbanks and enjoys this rich, organic, moist soil. However, it will grow in average soil as well. Full sun is best, but light shade is tolerated. Plants tend to spread more quickly in the shade, however. Most monardas multiply rapidly either by underground stems or self-sowing. Deadheading spent blooms will prolong the bloom time.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-leading-lady-12.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-leading-lady-monarda-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-leading-lady-monarda-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-leading-lady-12.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-leading-lady-monarda-1.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-leading-lady-monarda-2.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-buddleia-lavender-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-pink-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-queen-of-hearts""]}]}" perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennials-bee-balm"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n20 Inches\n\nSpread:\n20 Inches\n\nFlower Color:\nPurple shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nHardiness Zone:\n3,4,5,6,7,8\n\nSun or Shade?:\nFull sun (> 6 hrs. direct sun)\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nLow water needs\nAverage water needs\n\nWant to see wings?:\nAttracts butterflies\nBee Friendly\n\nNeed critter resistant plants?:\nDeer resistant\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nRapid\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSpring - Fall\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nPoor Soil\n\nATTRIBUTES:\nBorder Plant\nCut Flower\nDried Flower\nDrought Tolerant\nEasy To Grow\nFragrant Flowers\nMass Planting\nSalt Tolerant\n\nHOMEOWNER GROWING & MAINTENANCE TIPS:\nMonarda can be found naturally along riverbanks and enjoys this rich, organic, moist soil. However, it will grow in average soil as well. Full sun is best, but light shade is tolerated. Plants tend to spread more quickly in the shade, however. Most monardas multiply rapidly either by underground stems or self-sowing. Deadheading spent blooms will prolong the bloom time.\n\nPhoto Courtesy of Walters Gardens, Inc.\n"",""tab-3-content"":""
PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry-25.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry-26.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry-25.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry-26.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/perennial-monarda-rockin-raspberry-27.gif"",""height"":""600"",""width"":""600""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-37.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bee-balm-rockin-raspberry-monarda-38.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-buddleia-lavender-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-pink-cascade"",""perennial-buddleia-queen-of-hearts""]}]}" 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beets-red-ace-packet,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""veggies---herbs-vegetable-seed"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-red-ace-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""220""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/beets-red-ace-seeds-12.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-red-ace-seeds-6.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-red-ace-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""220""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/beets-red-ace-seeds-12.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-red-ace-seeds-6.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""edible-mix"",""beets-early-wonder-packet"",""beets--detroit-red-packet""]}]}" beet-detroit-golden-packet,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""veggies---herbs-vegetable-seed"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-detroit-golden-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""220""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/beets-detroit-golden-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-detroit-golden-seeds-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-detroit-golden-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""220""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/beets-detroit-golden-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/beets-detroit-golden-seeds-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""edible-mix"",""beets-red-ace-packet"",""beets-early-wonder-packet""]}]}" begonia-angelique,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""begonias"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
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Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/begonia-odorata-pink-delight-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""276""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/begonia-odorata-pink-delight-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/begonia-odorata-pink-delight-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/begonia-odorata-pink-delight-34.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""276""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/begonia-odorata-pink-delight-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/begonia-odorata-pink-delight-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""begonia-angelique"",""begonia-red-glory"",""begonia-sunny-dream""]}]}" begonia-red-glory,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""begonias"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
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Detailed Instructions
\n
BULBS
\n\n

Preparing Soil

\nProperly preparing the soil for bulb planting is important. Good soil drainage is essential in raising bulbs. If you have a soil with a high clay content, it can be improved by adding compost, peat moss or some other source of organic material. The organic material should be worked in the top twelve inches of soil (eighteen inches is even better).\n\""\""\n\n

Fertilization

\nSummer and fall flowering bulbs do not need additional fertilizer however you can fertilize monthly from shoot emergence until the plants reach full flower. Apply seven tablespoons of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer (or equivalent bulb fertilizer) split over two or three applications over a ten square foot area. Once in full flower, no extra fertilization is necessary.\nThe optimum pH range for bulbs is 6 to 7. If you not sure of your soil, then a soil test of the planting area can be done to determine if lime needs to be applied to adjust the soil pH. If needed, limestone should be worked into the soil.\n\n

Planting Location

\nBefore selecting the location to plant bulbs in the landscape, consider the light requirements of the plant. Does the plant require full sunshine, partial shade or full shade? Many summer blooming bulbs require full sun or partial shade. Well drained soil is a must.\n\n

Planting Depth

\nPlanting depth for spring to summer bulbs have varied planting requirements. For planting depth of summer blooming bulbs, consult the information supplied with the bulbs.\n\n

Watering

\nWater the bulbs following planting. This will help settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulbs to start rooting. Avoid over-watering at planting time since this can result in bulb rot.
For both spring and summer bulbs, start watering when the flower buds first appear on the plant if the soil is dry. Shallow watering will not do the job. Remember that the bulbs may have been planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the water needs to soak to that depth. Through the bud, bloom and early foliage stage, add about one inch of water per week if this amount has not been supplied from rainfall. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the bloom. Shallow planted bulbs, will rot quickly if over-watered in the heat of summer.\n\n

Staking

\nSome of the summer blooming bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus occasionally need extra support to be able to remain erect. Stakes will work for this purpose. Drive stakes in place at planting time to avoid accidental damage to the bulbs or tubers.\n\n

Mulching

\nThe bulb bed should be covered with two or three inches of mulch. Mulch will help minimize temperature fluctuation and maintain an optimal moisture level in the planting bed. The small, early booming bulbs should not be mulched.\n\n

Storing bulbs until you can plant them safely after all chance of frost has passed!

\nYou should wait until all chance of frost has passed and in colder areas that can be closer to the end of May. In the meantime, if you have received your bulbs you must store them properly until planting. All bulbs should be kept dry and cool. You do not want them to sprout before planting. If they do, be very careful not to break the sprouts or the bulb will no longer be any good.\nMake sure your cool place is not a freezing place. If you are still having cold weather don’t store them where the temperature dips below 32 degrees. Ideally, 35-45 degrees is best. Each type of spring planted bulb (summer blooming) has it’s requirement for storage. See our easy storing chart for proper temps.\nDahlias – between 35 and 45 degrees\nGladiolus – between 35 and 45 degrees\nLilies – between 35 and 45 degrees\nCalla Lily – around 65 degrees\nCanna Lily – around 50 degrees\nPerennials – between 35 and 45 degrees (cool is better – but do not allow to freeze)\n\n

Digging and Storing Summer Bulbs at the end of your season!

\nMost summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored when the leaves on the plants turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift the bulbs from the ground. Wash off any soil that clings to the bulbs, except for bulbs that are stored in pots or with the soil around them. Leave the soil on achimenes, begonia, canna, caladium, dahlia and ismene bulbs. Store these bulbs in clumps on a slightly moistened layer of peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Wash and separate them just before re-planting.\nStore bulbs according to our easy storage temperature guide. Inspect your bulbs for signs of disease. Keep only large, healthy bulbs that are firm and free of spots. Discard undersized bulbs. If you have only a few bulbs, you can keep them in paper bags hung by strings from the ceiling or wall. Store large numbers of bulbs on trays with screen bottoms. Separate your bulbs by species or variety before storing them.
Be sure that air can circulate around your stored bulbs. Never store bulbs more than two or three layers deep. Deep piles of bulbs generate heat and decay.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

What are spring planting bulbs?

\nSpring planting bulbs are bulbs that should be planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. The number of spring bulbs is quite extensive, but the most popular varieties include gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, lilies, freesia, anemone, tigridia, acidanthera, montbretia, sparaxis, iris, brodea, liatris, and callas. These bulbs and tubers generally originated from the sub tropical regions of the world such as South Africa and South America. Therefore, they like warm temperatures and humid conditions and are usually not winter hardy.\n\n

What should I look for when buying spring planting bulbs?

\nIn general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool dry place and will rot and therefore not flower. When buying tubers, look for tubers with 3 to 5 eyes and initial root formation.\n\n

When should I plant my bulbs?

\nSpring planting, summer flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May depending on your area.\n\n

How deep should I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nThe rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep. Exceptions include Dahlias and Begonias which should be planted just beneath the surface.\n\n

How far apart do I plant spring planting bulbs?

\nFor smaller varieties, 4 inches is a good interval, 5 inches apart for gladiolus and 10 inches for begonias. Lilies should be about 12 inches apart and dahlias as much as 16 inches apart. For uninterrupted color, they can be planted even closer together.\n\n

What do I do after my bulbs have bloomed?

\nOnce your bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place and replant the following spring.
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PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/belamcanda-chinensis-11.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belamcanda-chinensis-23.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belamcanda-chinensis-24.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/belamcanda-chinensis-11.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belamcanda-chinensis-23.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belamcanda-chinensis-24.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty"",""perennial-actaea-pink-spike"",""perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix""]}]}" 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belknap-landscaping,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""tips-and-tidbits"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-20.gif"",""height"":""350"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-24.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-25.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-21.gif"",""height"":""350"",""width"":""250""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-20.gif"",""height"":""350"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-24.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-25.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-21.gif"",""height"":""350"",""width"":""250""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-26.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-27.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-28.gif"",""height"":""350"",""width"":""250""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-29.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/belknap-landscape-large-estate-projects-30.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" big-bluestem,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""individual-grass-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""Grasses are used for conservation, erosion control, creating natural areas and for wildlife habitats. Planting native grasses has become increasingly popular over the last few years as they have low environmental impact. You can also use some grasses like rye as a green manure over the winter months to repair or rectify your soil. Farmers have done this for years.\n\nPreparation:\nPrepare the area where you would like to plant native grass seed as you would for a wildflower seed mix. Remove all existing growth, either by hand, roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and till again as in step one before reseeding to have the best shot at eradicating them. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling.\n\nSowing:\nOnce your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, its important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, youre giving possible weeds an advantage over the new seed you wish to sow. You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. Put your grass seed into two buckets; add in any wildflower seed and some sand. Usually 4 parts sand to 1 part seed. The sand does two things: It dilutes the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since its light-colored, it shows you where youve been on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one buckets mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, be sure you have a good seed to soil contact. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. If strictly sowing a grass mixture or an individual grass species, you can lightly rake in or cover your grass seed lightly.\n\nWatering: Keep your new area watered for the first month or two and then it should be self-sufficient unless you are having a drought.\n\n

What in the World is Green Manure or Cover Crops and Why Should I Care?

\nGreen manure crops may include legumes such as cowpeas, soybeans, annual sweet clover, vetch, etc. as well as non-leguminous crops such as sudangrass, millet, sorghum, and buckwheat. Legumes are often used as green manure crops for their nitrogen fixing abilities, while non-leguminous crops are used primarily for weed suppression and addition of biomass to the soil. Green manures usually perform multiple functions that include soil improvement and soil protection: Incorporation of cover crops into the soil is immediately followed by an increase in abundance of soil microorganisms that aid in the decomposition of this fresh material. The degradation of plant material allows the nutrients held within the green manure to be released and made available to the succeeding crop. This additional decomposition also allows for the re-incorporation of nutrients that are found in the soil in a particular form such as nitrogen, potassium , phosphorus , calcium , magnesium , and sulfur. Microbial activity in the soil also leads to the formation of mycelium and viscous materials which benefit the health of the soil by increasing its soil structure (i.e. by aggregation). Soil that is well- aggregated has increased aeration and water infiltration rates, and is more easily turned or tilled than non- aggregated soil. Further aeration of the soil results from the ability of the root systems of many green manure crops to efficiently penetrate compact soils. The amount of humus found in the soil also increases with higher rates of decomposition, which is beneficial for the growth of the crop succeeding the green manure crop. Green manure crops are also useful for weed control, erosion prevention, and reduction of insect pests and diseases. The deep rooting properties of many green manure crops make them efficient at suppressing weed. Green manure crops often provide habitat for many native pollinators as well as predatory beneficial insects, which allow for a reduction in the input of insecticides where cover crops are planted. Some green manures are also successful at suppressing plant diseases. Incorporation of green manures into a farming system can drastically reduce, if not eliminate, the need for additional products such as supplemental fertilizers and pesticides. Organic farming also relies on soil health and cycling of nutrients through the soil using natural processes. Green manures perform the vital function of fertilization, in concert with the addition of animal manures if those are used. Green manure also brings other organic advantages with it depending upon the plant type used. Buckwheat, for example, prevents the spread of weeds, and Winter wheat and Winter rye can also be used for grazing.\n\n\n

Planting a Cover Crop or Green Manure Crop?

\n\nWhen Do I Plant?\nPlant in Spring - Fall\n\nHow Do I Plant?\nSame as the instructions above.\n\nWhat is the Next Step?\nSome of your cover crops may slow their growth in cold temps but will re-start again in early spring. In mid-late spring, mow down your cover crops before they go to seed and then rototill them into the soil in preparation for new garden areas. You will need to wait about 3-5 weeks after tilling before you plant anything new in this area. As most cover crops or green manures add beneficial nutrients to the soil, this allows the nutrients added to be released into the soil and some of them like rye which keep down other seeds (like weeds) from germinating will no longer be present in the soil after a few weeks. After you wait this time amount, go ahead and plant your new areas according to the proper instructions for what you are planting.\n\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/big-bluestem-grass-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/big-bluestem-grass-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/big-bluestem-grass-seeds-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/big-bluestem-grass-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/big-bluestem-grass-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/big-bluestem-grass-seeds-14.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""annual-ryegrass"",""autumn-bentgrass"",""blue-eyed-grass""]}]}" 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black-cohosh,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""native-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break dormancy.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-9.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-9.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-cohosh-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""joe-pyeweed"",""sensitive-fern"",""trout-lily""]}]}" 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flower6,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflowers-in-bloom"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-13.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-13.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-individual-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade-seeds-15.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade-seeds-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade-seeds-15.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/black-eyed-susan-dwarf-marmalade-seeds-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""african-daisy"",""arroyo-lupine"",""babys-breath""]}]}" blackberry-lily-seeds,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland---rare-species-seed"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break 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perennial-bloodroot,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""woodland-shade-perennials"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Height:\n4-6 inches\n\nSpread:\nn/a\n\nFlower Color:\nWhite Shades\n\nFoliage Color:\nGreen shades\n\nCan be Grown in all Zones\n\nSun or Shade?:\nPart shade (4-6 hrs. direct sun)\nFull shade (< 4 hrs. direct sun)\n\nWet or dry?:\nAverage water needs\nConsistent water needs\n\nHow fast should it grow?:\nMedium/Slow\n\nWhen should it bloom?:\nSpring\n\nHow's your soil?:\nAverage Soil\nFertile Soil"",""tab-3-content"":""

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Plant as soon as you can. (Do not over water your perennials.) Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-3.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-5.gif"",""height"":""320"",""width"":""480""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-3.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-5.gif"",""height"":""320"",""width"":""480""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-35.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-36.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-actaea-hillside-black-beauty"",""perennial-actaea-pink-spike"",""perennial-aquilegia-mckana-mix""]}]}" woodland-photo2,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-30.gif"",""height"":""187"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-38.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-39.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-30.gif"",""height"":""187"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-38.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-39.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" farm12,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""photogallery"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-26.gif"",""height"":""188"",""width"":""247""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-37.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-11.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-26.gif"",""height"":""188"",""width"":""247""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-37.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-11.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" blood-root,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""native-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break dormancy.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-28.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-41.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-42.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-43.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-28.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-41.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-33.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-42.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blood-root-seeds-43.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/annual-low-grow-wildflower-seed-mix-32.gif"",""height"":""0"",""width"":""0""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/annual-low-grow-wildflower-seed-mix-33.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/annual-low-grow-wildflower-seed-mix-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""jack-in-the-pulpit-seed"",""merrybells-seed"",""great-white-trillium-seed""]}]}" blue-bead-lily,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennial-wildflowers"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break dormancy.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-7.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-4.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-7.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-4.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-bead-lily-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""blackberry-lily-seeds"",""turks-cap-lily"",""wood-lily""]}]}" 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blue-daisies-mini-packet,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""flower-seed-packets-mini-packets"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-24.gif"",""height"":""1000"",""width"":""725""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-18.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-27.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-28.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-24.gif"",""height"":""1000"",""width"":""725""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-25.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-26.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-18.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-27.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-daisies-seed-packet-28.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""sheet-of-80-labels-printed"",""wedding-cake-mini-packet"",""wedding-car-mini-packet""]}]}" blue-eyed-grass,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennial-wildflowers"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break dormancy.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-21.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-22.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-23.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-eyed-grass-seeds-24.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""fire-weed"",""harebell-seed"",""mckana-columbine""]}]}" wd37,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""photogallery"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flag-iris-7.gif"",""height"":""187"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flag-iris-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flag-iris-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flag-iris-7.gif"",""height"":""187"",""width"":""250""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flag-iris-9.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flag-iris-10.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" seedling35,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seedlings"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-14.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-14.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-18.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" flower91,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflowers-in-bloom"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-13.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-13.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-19.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[]}" blue-flax,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""native-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-30.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-43.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-16.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-45.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-30.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-43.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-34.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-16.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-44.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-45.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset2"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-46.gif"",""height"":""310"",""width"":""300""},""inset2-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-47.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset2-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-flax-seeds-48.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""sweet-william"",""siberian-wallflower"",""arroyo-lupine""]}]}" blue-grama,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""individual-grass-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""Grasses are used for conservation, erosion control, creating natural areas and for wildlife habitats. Planting native grasses has become increasingly popular over the last few years as they have low environmental impact. You can also use some grasses like rye as a green manure over the winter months to repair or rectify your soil. Farmers have done this for years.\n\nPreparation:\nPrepare the area where you would like to plant native grass seed as you would for a wildflower seed mix. Remove all existing growth, either by hand, roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and till again as in step one before reseeding to have the best shot at eradicating them. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling.\n\nSowing:\nOnce your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, its important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, youre giving possible weeds an advantage over the new seed you wish to sow. You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. Put your grass seed into two buckets; add in any wildflower seed and some sand. Usually 4 parts sand to 1 part seed. The sand does two things: It dilutes the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since its light-colored, it shows you where youve been on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one buckets mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, be sure you have a good seed to soil contact. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. If strictly sowing a grass mixture or an individual grass species, you can lightly rake in or cover your grass seed lightly.\n\nWatering: Keep your new area watered for the first month or two and then it should be self-sufficient unless you are having a drought.\n\n

What in the World is Green Manure or Cover Crops and Why Should I Care?

\nGreen manure crops may include legumes such as cowpeas, soybeans, annual sweet clover, vetch, etc. as well as non-leguminous crops such as sudangrass, millet, sorghum, and buckwheat. Legumes are often used as green manure crops for their nitrogen fixing abilities, while non-leguminous crops are used primarily for weed suppression and addition of biomass to the soil. Green manures usually perform multiple functions that include soil improvement and soil protection: Incorporation of cover crops into the soil is immediately followed by an increase in abundance of soil microorganisms that aid in the decomposition of this fresh material. The degradation of plant material allows the nutrients held within the green manure to be released and made available to the succeeding crop. This additional decomposition also allows for the re-incorporation of nutrients that are found in the soil in a particular form such as nitrogen, potassium , phosphorus , calcium , magnesium , and sulfur. Microbial activity in the soil also leads to the formation of mycelium and viscous materials which benefit the health of the soil by increasing its soil structure (i.e. by aggregation). Soil that is well- aggregated has increased aeration and water infiltration rates, and is more easily turned or tilled than non- aggregated soil. Further aeration of the soil results from the ability of the root systems of many green manure crops to efficiently penetrate compact soils. The amount of humus found in the soil also increases with higher rates of decomposition, which is beneficial for the growth of the crop succeeding the green manure crop. Green manure crops are also useful for weed control, erosion prevention, and reduction of insect pests and diseases. The deep rooting properties of many green manure crops make them efficient at suppressing weed. Green manure crops often provide habitat for many native pollinators as well as predatory beneficial insects, which allow for a reduction in the input of insecticides where cover crops are planted. Some green manures are also successful at suppressing plant diseases. Incorporation of green manures into a farming system can drastically reduce, if not eliminate, the need for additional products such as supplemental fertilizers and pesticides. Organic farming also relies on soil health and cycling of nutrients through the soil using natural processes. Green manures perform the vital function of fertilization, in concert with the addition of animal manures if those are used. Green manure also brings other organic advantages with it depending upon the plant type used. Buckwheat, for example, prevents the spread of weeds, and Winter wheat and Winter rye can also be used for grazing.\n\n\n

Planting a Cover Crop or Green Manure Crop?

\n\nWhen Do I Plant?\nPlant in Spring - Fall\n\nHow Do I Plant?\nSame as the instructions above.\n\nWhat is the Next Step?\nSome of your cover crops may slow their growth in cold temps but will re-start again in early spring. In mid-late spring, mow down your cover crops before they go to seed and then rototill them into the soil in preparation for new garden areas. You will need to wait about 3-5 weeks after tilling before you plant anything new in this area. As most cover crops or green manures add beneficial nutrients to the soil, this allows the nutrients added to be released into the soil and some of them like rye which keep down other seeds (like weeds) from germinating will no longer be present in the soil after a few weeks. After you wait this time amount, go ahead and plant your new areas according to the proper instructions for what you are planting.\n\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-grama-grass-1.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-grama-grass-seeds-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-grama-grass-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-grama-grass-1.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-grama-grass-seeds-7.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-grama-grass-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""annual-ryegrass"",""autumn-bentgrass"",""big-bluestem""]}]}" blue-himalayan-poppy,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""perennial-wildflowers"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-himalayan-poppy-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-himalayan-poppy-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-himalayan-poppy-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-himalayan-poppy-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blue-himalayan-poppy-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/blue-himalayan-poppy-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""cardinal-flower"",""great-white-trillium-seed"",""common-lavender""]}]}" blue-wildflower-seed-mix,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""wildflower-seed-wildflower-mixes-specialized"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-3-content"":""
Detailed Instructions
\n\nHow Much Seed Do I Need?\nIn planning a wildflower meadow or garden, first you need to choose your site and estimate the square footage of the area. To find the square footage of any square or rectangular area, simply multiply the length in feet times the width in feet. For example, a border 50 feet long and 10 feet wide is 500 sq. ft. in area (50 X 10 = 500). For a circle, the area is equal to “pi” r squared, or pi (3.1) times the radius of your circle, squared. If your circle is 20 feet across, its radius is half of that or 10 ft. So to get the square footage of the circle: 3.1 X 10 X 10 = 310 sq. ft. The amount of seed you should plant depends on the flower display you want. Most usually want dense or maximum bloom. All mixtures are pure wildflower seed, no fillers or grasses. The denser you sow your wildflower area with seed, the more you will hold out the weeds and grasses. Just be sure not to over seed, so your wildflowers do not compete with themselves for space!\n\nOur suggestion for coverage is as follows:\n1 oz. up 100 sq ft\n lb covers 250 - 500 sq ft\n lb covers 500 - 1,000 sq ft\n1 lb covers 1,000 - 2,000 sq ft\n5 lbs covers 5,000 - 10,000 sq ft\n10 lbs covers 10,000 - 20,000 sq ft\n50 lbs covers 1+ Acres\nSEEDING RATES ARE APPROX. DEPENDING ON THE DENSITY OF COVERAGE YOU DESIRE!\n\nNote: If you have a large site, from ½ acre to several acres, your planting rate may be affected by land conditions. If you have heavy weeds on the site now, some erosion, generally poor soil, or other land problems, additional seed is usually the most economical solution. If your site does have these types of problems and you want to build in some assurance of full coverage, use a per pound coverage rate of 1000 sq ft. We usually suggest 50 lbs. per acre.\n\nWhere to Plant: Unless you are planting our Partial Shade Mix or Woodland Species, choose a spot with as much sun as possible. We consider full sun at least 6 hours daily.  For wildflowers, full sun is best. Most all soils are acceptable -- if any plant has grown in the spot, it should support wildflowers, which are tough and will adapt to the soil you provide for them.\n\n When to Plant: The optimum time to plant wildflower seed in your area depends on your climate and rainfall patterns, as well as the species you are planting.  In cooler climates; plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in spring, early summer or late fall. In milder or warm climates; plant wildflower seed during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring.  Perennials can be sown spring, summer and fall. If planting perennials late summer be sure to allow 10 weeks growing time before plants go dormant for the winter months. Spring planting: when there is no further chance of a killing frost, meaning that your night time temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and above. Summer plantings: annuals or mixes containing annuals can be planted through mid-summer. Depending on your climate you want to insure that you have enough time to enjoy all the annuals in your growing season. Perennials can be planted through the summer up until 10 weeks before your cold weather sets in. Fall plantings: in areas with freezing weather, a fall planting must be after a killing frost when your daytime temperatures are maintaining 45 degrees and below but before the ground freezes. In other words, when you are sure cold weather has set in. Killing frosts usually happen at 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall plantings in cooler climates are dormant plantings and should be late enough so that the ground temperature is low but the ground is not yet frozen. Seeds must remain dormant – the seeds will germinate in spring. In areas of no frost, plant as your rainy season begins.  It is never too late to plant – just ask us for details on how and what to plant! Click here to read more about Fall planting!\n\nSoil Preparation: This is the most important step in obtaining success of your wildflower planting, whether it is a small garden or a large meadow. Remove all existing growth, either by hand , roto-tilling, rough or power raking. Till only deep enough to remove all old roots. Deep tilling may bring up dormant weed seeds lying beneath which will compete with your flowers. If you want to be sure your soil is weed seed free, youll have to till, wait for the crop of new weeds to grow, usually one to three weeks and then do one of two things; kill them down with one of the safe, non-residual method of using white vinegar; or to till again as in step one. If you use the vinegar method, then once the weeds are dead, rake them out and seed your wildflowers without roto-tilling again. If using the roto-till method, you can seed after the second or third tilling. For those of you that wish to use an herbicide, please read the label for any detrimental effects it may cause. If you choose to use this, use the same steps as if using the vinegar.\n\n About Fertilizer: When you choose to plant wildflowers there is usually minimal weeding done…and fertilizer will encourage the weeds and grasses. Fertilizer is not necessary for a great wildflower garden or meadow. (No one fertilizes in the wild or along roadsides), but if you want this extra boost for your flowers, fertilize only where you are willing to weed.\n\nSowing: Once your soil is prepared and free of previous growth, it’s important to sow immediately. (If you let time go by between preparation and spreading your seed, you’re giving possible weeds an advantage over your wildflower seed). You can use a hand crank seed sower, but most simply scatter the seed by hand. If you want to be sure to get good, even coverage, divide your seed into two roughly equal parts, in two buckets or cans. Then add clean sandbox sand to both halves, roughly 4-5 parts of sand to 1 part of seed. The sand does two things: It “dilutes” the seed, making it easier to sow evenly, and since it’s light-colored, it shows you “where you’ve been” on the dark soil as you go. Next, sow one bucket’s mix over your whole area. Then go back in the opposite direction and do the same with the second bucket. This way, you should have even spreading and no bare spots. Once seed is sown, do not rake or cover it in any way. If you can, use a lawn roller or lay down a large board and walk on it to compress (squash down) the seed into the bare soil. Remember, some of the seed you’re sowing is tiny; even the lightest covering of soil can stop it from germinating. Keep your new seedbed moist until seedlings are about 6-8” tall. After that, they should be self- sufficient; however watering during droughts will keep your flowers blooming.\n\n Know your Annuals, Perennials, Biennials: If you are planting one of our regional mixes, your seed is approximately 50% wild annuals, which will bloom the first year, and 50% wild perennials, which won’t bloom until the second year. The annuals are quick-growing, quick-blooming and will bloom for months, and then die with a killing frost. Most do reseed, but the seed must fall on bare ground to re-grow the next spring. Perennials are the flowers that “come back every year” from the same roots, forming expanding clumps in your meadow over the years. Biennials bloom the second year, and are killed by that year’s frost. However, they are heavy re-seeders, and usually reappear in the meadow.\n\nMaintenance: The amount of work you want to put into your meadow area is up to you. The only requirement is a once-a-year mowing in the fall after killing frosts—to disperse seed and to keep down brushy growth. Another good practice is to identify areas that have become weak or weed-filled, and to reseed those spots, the same way you repair bare spots in a lawn. Once you are able to identify weeds, hand pulling is a viable method of control for the small to medium garden. Any weed that you can pull will constitute to the success of your garden for years. One weed can disperse thousands of seeds, so get ‘em out of there if you can. If you have a large planting and you notice an area of weeds, then the above method of re-tilling and re-seeding that area is your way to obtain maximum success.\n\n Be Patient and Enjoy! Be patient while your garden or meadow establishes but once it has you’ll notice small wildlife, many birds, butterflies and other insects that are attracted to your wild garden; observing these visitors is one of the greatest pleasures of growing wildflowers. Mow paths through your meadow, put in benches and bird-feeders, and enjoy it all for years to come.\n\n
Common Questions
\n

How do I kill the Grass in my wildflower area?

\nContact Us for Suggestions!\n\n

What can I plant for the honey bees, butterflies etc.?

\nAll wildflowers are beneficial but we recommend our Deluxe Mix which has everything for everybody or our Hummingbird/Butterfly or Nature’s Choice Mix!\n\n

Can I grow wildflowers in full shade?

\nThe technical answer is no, all wildflowers need some sort of light. There is one wildflower that will do well in complete shade, Forget-me-not and you can also use our Woodland or Hand Gathered and Rare species. Call or e-mail us for advice.\n\n

Is the Queen Anne’s Lace you sell invasive?

\nNO, absolutely not. We do not sell invasive species. The Queen Anne’s Lace we sell is the annual, (Ammi majus) and not the invasive, Daucus Caroata.\n\n

Can I use more than one mix in the same area?

\nYes, mix and match away! You can also mix mixes together or add additional species - the creativity is endless!\n\n

When Should I Plant?

\nIn Spring, Summer or Fall; see above for complete info!\n\n

How do I store my seeds?

\nStore seeds in a cool and dry place. If stored properly seeds are viable for years!\n\n

What’s better - A Fall or Spring seeding?

\nSome only believe in a Spring seeding while others only believe in a Fall Seeding. At the Farm, we seed Spring, Summer and Fall in order to take advantage of the entire growing season!\n\n

Can I order now and have you ship later?

\nYes, we ship when you want to - just let us know when -  we’re at your service!\n\n

Should I add anything to my soil?

\nTechnically, no - but some may need to add lime, fertilizer, gypsum or other additives. (Contact us for details)\n\n

How often should I water?

\nOnce germination happens, keep moist until seedlings are 6-8” tall - you may need to water every other day unless Mother Nature is providing the rain.\n\n

Can I transplant my wildflowers?

\nMost wildflowers do not like transplanting - so plant your seeds where you want to see them grow!
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PERENNIALS
\n\n

What Are Perennials?

\nTechnically, perennials are plants that live and bloom for more than 2 years. This is in contrast to annuals that live for one year and die. Some varieties of perennials are short-lived (lasting 3-4 years) but most have very long life spans such as peonies which have been known to live 100 years or more! Perennials come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. The best thing about perennials is that you only have to plant them once and then they come back bigger and better every year. What a great investment! An important distinction between annuals and perennials is that most perennials need to be vernalized (exposed to cold temperatures for a prolonged period of time) in order to bloom every year. Most perennials bloom once per season, but some re-bloom again in late summer or fall. New advancements in hybridizing are expanding the population of perennials that bloom continuously for many months at a time. Other perennials, such as hostas and ferns, are grown for their decorative foliage rather than flowers.\n\n

How Do I Use Perennials In My Garden?

\nThere are lots of ways to use perennials in your yard, garden or landscaping. Mixing up the gardens is very popular by combining annuals with perennials, and woody plants. Single varieties of perennials are sometimes planted in large patches alongside a driveway or fence line. You can fill planters with a mix of annuals and perennials which has become increasingly common in modern landscapes. Of the many perennials available today, there is something for every growing environment: sun, shade, hot & dry, cold & wet, and everything else.\n\n

How Do Your Perennials Come?

\nOur perennials come in three forms: bare roots, plant plugs or potted plants. You will find this information on each species pages. We select the form in which the plant will be shipped to you for specific reasons. Since the shipping of plants is a delicate matter and great care must be taken, we select each species by 2 criteria; what is better for that species performance wise i.e. better started as a bare root or plug or potted or what is better for that species shipping wise depending on growth rates of a particular variety. For example, we ship Columbines as plant plugs since they are just breaking dormancy and have small top growth as a plug vs. a more mature potted plant which is delicate and would get damaged during shipment. Baptisia, for example, is shipped as a bare root because they have more eyes, and are bigger and better when grown from a bare root than receiving one as a plug or potted plant etc. etc.\n\n

What is a Bareroot, Plant Plug or Potted Plant\n

\""MyA bare root is the root of a plant in a dormant state, and depending on the species, will have eyes or sprouts. It is a plant that is sold with the roots exposed, rather than potted in soil. Bare roots are healthy and usually grow quickly depending on the species. A plant plug is the general term for seedlings or rooted cuttings that have been started in trays of individual cells. Plant plugs have healthy root systems and can be dormant or breaking dormancy. Plugs and bare roots are the most economical way to purchase perennial plants. A potted plant is one that is usually in a 4-6 pot and is well on its way to growing. We rarely offer larger potted plants but those we do offer are those that need a head start, like hydrangeas or other bush-type plants because of their longer growth time.\n\n

Our Commitment to You On Quality:

\nVermont Wildflower Farm has a strong commitment to provide only the most healthy, vigorous stock to our customers. We are committed to only offering plants that our customers will be successful with. We have built our reputation by offering a wide variety of items to choose from, only the finest quality and we stand firmly behind our product. We offer superior customer service and we, like you, are gardeners too, so we wont sell you anything that does not meet our high standards and that we would not plant ourselves. In fact, all of our products are planted at our homes and our business. If something does not meet your expectations or does not grow, just call or e-mail us so we can assist you. We are also available 7 days a week to offer advice, answer questions or help you plan your gardens. Your success is our success!\n\n

Perennial Growing Tips:

\n- Perennials are colorful flowers and vibrant foliage that come back year after year. You should decide what type of garden you want and where you wish to locate your garden so you have the most effect and enjoyment. Your perennial plants should be provided as best you can with the right soil, light and water. In doing so you will enjoy a fairly maintenance free area for years to come.\n\n- Prepare your garden soil in spring as soon as you can work the soil. This usually occurs after the last frost of winter. Dig and turn your soil at least 8 inches for perennial plants. Add nutrients to the soil if need be. You can do this by simply mixing in 3-4 inches of compost.\n\n- Plan your flower bed according to height with the taller flowers in the back and shorter in the front or plan individual groupings.\n\n- Ensure you have a season-long display by choosing varieties that bloom at different times. Most perennials bloom for just a few weeks. Example: Peonies in spring, tiger lilies during the summer, and purple coneflower in early autumn will ensure flowers all season.\n\n- Group your plants by their light and water requirements. Most perennials like at least six hours of sun each day. Some, like columbines, will tolerate shade. Plant drought-tolerant varieties, like candytuft and tickseed close to each other. Bellflowers and asters need regular water and could be grouped together etc. etc.\n\n- Leave enough space between plants to allow them to grow. Plant perennials at least as far apart as the plant's mature spread. If the tag doesn't show the spread, set your plants 18 to 24 inches apart.\n\n-Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the pot it came in and add a bit of fertilizer. Hold the plant loosely at its base, up-end the pot and slide out the plant. Gently spread the roots and set the plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the plant's root ball is not below the surface.\n\n-Fill in the hole and water the plant thoroughly to establish the roots. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help to preserve moisture and discourage weeds.\n\n

What To Do When My Shipment Arrives:

\n\nArrival of Your Shipment\n If you are unable to plant right away, we suggest the following:\n Store your bare root or plug perennials for a short time at a temperature between 35 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is perfect.\n Open the boxes for good air circulation to discourage surface mold growth. (surface mold is not harmful to firm and otherwise healthy looking roots and can be rinsed away prior to planting)\n Many perennial varieties including berries may not have visible top growth when received. This does not mean the plants are dead. These cultivars emerge from root or tubers and are late to break dormancy. Rest assured, that just because there are no leaves or top growth, the roots are healthy and ready to be planted. Be patient. To assist in their breaking of dormancy, warmer night temperatures of 65-70 degrees will help. Once ready to plant your new perennials, make sure you take a few steps to insure success:\n Plant as soon as you can. Make sure you wait until all chance of freezing weather has passed. If it takes a bit longer in your area, let your perennials get some sun and keep moist. (Do not over water your perennials. Leave your bare roots in their package. If you notice the contents becoming dry, moisten with a spray bottle but do not soak the bag and packing material/soil. You can transplant you plugs if you need to into gallon size containers until you can get them outside.\n Make sure you choose the right spot for your plant.\n Plant according to tag instructions.\n Make sure you follow moisture requirements for your new perennials.\n Dont pull on any top growth when removing your perennials from their pots, you can damage the plant/stalk.\n Make sure if you have specialized perennials, that you following care guides for each species.\n Make sure when planting your bare root perennials that they are planted in the proper direction (root ball at the bottom). Some dont care but others do!\n Stake those plants that need it, like Delphiniums but try to avoiding staking those that do not need it.\n Make sure that for taller plants that you fill in some ground all summer growth to cover the areas once any particular perennial has passed its bloom time.\n Many of our perennial plants bloom for very long periods.\n\nAs always, if you have any questions, please just shoot us an e-mail or call us toll-free and one of our experts will be happy to answer your questions!\n\nIf you wish your order shipped ahead of the scheduled time by zone/region, just let us know in the comments field at checkout that you wish your order shipped as soon as the products arrive in stock!\n\n\n

BILLING FOR ADVANCE SALES

\nYour online order for bulbs/bareroots/perennials etc. will be charged to your credit card including shipping at the time of placing the order (advance sale) and the bulbs and/or perennials, bare roots will ship according to the shipping schedule on the guide pages. This is standard practice in the mail-order bulb business. It not only allows us to accurately project inventory but allows us to offer you huge discounts for pre-ordering. We fully guarantee all flower bulbs and perennial plants/bareroots under the same terms as our seed products.\n\n

SHIPPING INFORMATION (TIMES)

\nSouth, Southwest, Western states begin shipping 4/05 - 4/20. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nLower Midwest, Mid-Atlantic begin shipping 4/15 - 4/30. You should expect your order within those dates or shortly thereafter.\nUpper Midwest and Northeast (colder zones) begin shipping 4/20 - 5/10. You should expect your order shortly thereafter.\nDO NOT PANIC about shipping dates. Perennial plants and bareroots can be planted quite late and establish well.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vaccinium-earliblue-blueberry-28.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blueberry-earliblue-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blueberry-earliblue-17.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/vaccinium-earliblue-blueberry-28.gif"",""height"":""400"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blueberry-earliblue-16.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/blueberry-earliblue-17.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""perennial-strawberry-earliglow"",""perennial-elderberry"",""perennial-rubus-thornless""]}]}" bluet-seeds,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""native-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break dormancy.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/bluet-seeds-houstonia-12.gif"",""height"":""287"",""width"":""288""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bluet-seeds-houstonia-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/bluet-seeds-houstonia-16.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/bluet-seeds-houstonia-12.gif"",""height"":""287"",""width"":""288""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/bluet-seeds-houstonia-20.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/bluet-seeds-houstonia-16.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""arroyo-lupine"",""baby-blue-eyes"",""bee-balm""]}]}" boneset,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""native-species"",""template"":""ey-master"",""tab-1-content"":""Woodland and Rare Wildflowers\nAbout: Many seeds of woodland and rare wildflowers have built-in dormancy mechanisms which protect them from germinating before killing frosts or in times of drought. In the wild, seeds will lie dormant until they acclimate to their new environment or until the proper conditions for growth occur. To be successful with these types of species and growing them from seed you must realize that each species has a different method of naturally breaking dormancy. Woodland and Rare wildflowers are not instant garden flowers and many take a great amount of patience before they germinate and bloom. Once they do, they are well worth the wait.\nDifferent Ways Woodland and Rare Species Break Dormancy: Each species is different. Some are relatively quick and act like traditional perennials while others can take a few years. Below, we have outlined different ways these species break dormancy to help you better understand why some take longer than others. It will also help you to better understand why they dont germinate the first or second year so dont give up on them!\n1. Some species germinate upon sowing in a warm location like any other perennial. They grow and leaf the first year to begin blooming the second and successive years.\n2. Some species need a cold, moist stratification followed by an extended cold period ie. Fall/Winter.\n3. Very small seeds need light to break dormancy so they should be planted no deeper than 1/8th of an inch and just a light layer of soil cover. They shouldnt be allowed to dry out. You can tell the size of your seeds by just looking at them.\n4. Some species will need a warm, moist period followed by a cold, moist period and will need 2-4 full years of these alternating conditions to break dormancy.\n"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-3.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-17.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-8.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""300"",""width"":""300""},""inset-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-18.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""inset-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/boneset-seeds-19.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""cardinal-flower"",""great-white-trillium-seed"",""common-lavender""]}]}" borage-packet,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""veggies---herbs-herb-seed"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/borage-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""214""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/borage-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/borage-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""},""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/borage-seeds-2.gif"",""height"":""250"",""width"":""214""},""image-amp-main"":{""url"":""https://s.yimg.com/aah/yhst-61819287486445/borage-seeds-11.gif"",""height"":""200"",""width"":""360""},""image-amp-inset"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/borage-seeds-5.gif"",""height"":""100"",""width"":""100""}},""relations"":[{""name"":""related-items"",""ids"":[""anise-packet"",""arugulapacket"",""arugula-organic-packet""]}]}" botanical-potholder,d,"{""minimum-quantity"":""1"",""path"":""buy-1-get-1-free-deals"",""template"":""ey-master"",""imageFields"":{""image"":{""url"":""https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-61819287486445/botanical-potholder-18.gif"",""height"":""300"",""widt